Thursday, July 8, 2010

Taking a break

This Dominican Life, is going to be out of action for about a year, during which time I'll be out of the country. It's been real. :)

Flying

Some people who were recently here left in two different flights through the las Americas airport. The first group reported to me that security had taken away their blow dryers and umbrellas that were in their carry-on. The second, two women traveling together, said that security had tried to take a blow dryer, an umbrella, and some castille soap (solid form). They made such a fuss, that finally they were allowed to keep their items, and the bags were stowed below, and not allowed as carry ons.

Items such as nail clippers and rounded scissors, that the US once prohibited but now allows, are still no-no's for Dominican Republic. (I can just imagine, the terrorist puts the nail clippers to someone's throat..."Do what I tell you and you won't get clipped!") So if you are flying out of the DR, be sure to see if there are any new items on the prohibited list. If you suspect that the security people just want your blow dryer to use or sell, or notice on a rainy day they are suddenly confiscating nice umbrellas, just remember that this is a normal part of this Dominican Life.

Friday, June 4, 2010

It's raining, it's pouring...

Yes, part of this Dominican Life is the hurricane season, and here it is again. It starts on June1st and goes on through the end of November, which means a whopping half of the year is hurricane season. The good news is that normally, early and late season aren't too bad. Most of the intense rains seem to come around August and September.

You may be familiar with tropical rains if you live in Florida. They are the kind of rains that can cause city-wide floods in a matter of minutes. An umbrella will keep your hair dry, but don't count on your clothes or shoes remaining dry, because these storms usually come with driving winds.

Once the rain is over, it generally means a pleasant temperature for a while, especially if it is at night. It may go as low as 70ยบ and people will be breaking out the jackets. No kidding. After living here for several years, I'm liable to get mine out too!

The capital city, Santo Domingo, has horrible drainage problems. Part of this is probably just that the system was never designed for this city with out of control growth. But there is also the issue that people throw so much garbage and trash on the street. When it begins to rain, the gutters take it down to the drain, where it clogs, and the street floods. One community I work in has a custom. I have seen this with my own eyes. When it rains hard for about ten minutes, the streets of that area become flash floods, and rushing rivers. The inhabitants take their garbage outside and throw it in the "river" to have it wash away toward the canal that is a few blocks away. I asked one woman about it and she told me that she has lived in the area more than twenty years, and they've always done it this way.

The rains cause flooded streets, which cause horrendous traffic jams. If you happen to be on foot, you may find yourself having to wade across a flooded street.

Hurricanes, rains, and floods...part of this Dominican Life.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Elections

We are in the last days of the campaign. Sunday the elections will be held. We have been promised two days, that is Sunday and Monday, of uninterrupted electricity. As a foreigner, that's one of the best parts of the elections!

What is campaigning like here? In a word: noisy. Each political party organizes huge meetings, and caravans that  parade down the street. The supporters are waving flags with the colors of the party they support. There are people on foot, SUV's lots of trucks, and large vehicles filled with people. They have many boom box vehicles, blaring out music and political talk to the neighborhood as they pass. When one party went down my street, it took about 20 minutes for them to get past.

Votes are commonly promised in exchange for some favor the politician does for the individual, or a gift given. Often it involves money. Perhaps he buys some medicine that is needed, or gives him some other type of financial help. Dominican Today said: "The Electoral Board’s Administrative Chamber (JCE) ordered the City councils and the Government to halt social programs such as the handout of food rations, home appliances, construction equipment and other aid from May 14 to 17, aimed at promoting fairness among the political parties."

So votes must not be bought during those dates. 

Many people go home to their city or town of origin to vote. Previously this was a requirement, but I have heard that you can actually have them transfer the paperwork to your new city, and vote there these days.

Traffic jams. That's another biggie during the campaign. Today, I took a taxi across the city. At one point we were stopped for 20 minutes. We were near the beginning of the traffic jam, so we got out much more quickly than others. People got out of their cars, and looked around, and chatted, trying to figure out the holdup. They realized quickly that it was a political rally that was nearby.

As the traffic finally began to move, we looked in astonishment at the opposing traffic. This main street that runs through the whole length of the city, was one long full parking lot, for miles!  A couple of years ago, during the elections, I got caught in traffic. It took a few hours to get home, when normally it would have been a half hour.

Dominicans get much more personally involved in their elections than do Americans. Sometimes I think it is just an excuse for a big party. But really, that would not be fair. The politician gives them something, or promises them something,  and they are expected to go to his meetings, supporting him in exchange.

Elections are also a time when things get done. It's when the garbage truck actually shows up, and the holes in the roads are repaired. (Don't worry, they will be repaired again next election.)

Most elections, there is some amount of violence, and this one is not exception. Still, over the years, the violent aspect of elections has diminished greatly. This year, shots were fired into one of the caravans, and one of the candidates ended up with a broken rib. No one actually got shot, but there were scratches, bumps, and bruises, as everyone rushed to get out of the line of fire.

Remember, what I'm writing here is to give you a foreigner's perspective of an election. We "expats" keep our distance from the actual issues, and campaign. All that is left for us is the noise, traffic, and hooray! electricity for two solid days! Elections are an important part of this Dominican Life.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Garbage, elections, and electricity thieves, oh my!

Today was not an unusual day here. Early morning I heard the neighbor shouting the names of everyone around. The garbage truck was coming, and she was alerting us. You see, it can easily sneak by, and you would have to wait till the next time. Whoever sees it first, has to alert all their neighbors. When the garbage truck comes---which can be at any time, any day, everyone scrambles to get all the garbage out to the truck. On this side of town, we don't put out big garbage cans. They would get stolen. (And yes, I've had one stolen.)  They do that where the rich folks live. Here, we wait till the truck comes. If you  put out plastic bags, wandering dogs will tear them open, as well as people who just want to check through to make sure you haven't thrown away anything usable (no one much does).

The big truck, will honk its horn, as it goes down the street, but still goes quickly, and you really have to run to get the garbage out before they are gone. The small truck that came today didn't even honk. It was just trying to sneak down the street and hope we didn't notice I guess. Usually I give the guy ten pesos when he takes the garbage. If you pay them, they will actually pick it up from the curb, otherwise you throw it in the truck yourself. I like to pay them, because I know these guys don't make much. It also can be an encouragement for them to come back.

The trucks can come daily, weekly, or even monthly. You never know when they will show up. But when elections are coming up, things tend to improve, temporarily. You get more electricity, road repairs, lots of water, and garbage pickup--till the elections are over, at least.

What else happened on my street today? Well, pre-election campaigning is in full swing. There was a 20 minute political parade that went down my street around six thirty tonight. It was complete with buses full of people, people marching down the street, large boom-box political campaign noise-aka-music-makers blaring loudly their political songs and slogans. People waved large white flags, because this was the white party. We still have the purple and red to come in future days, and I'm sure the white party will be back as well. Each political party has a color, just like the Republicans and Democrats have elephants and donkeys in the US. Most Americans would probably not enjoy the elections, but Dominicans make the campaign one big party. They are much more into politics, because if your friend wins, you win.

The last thing I noticed  happening on my street today, was a guy up on the electric pole, hooking up the electricity for someone who hadn't paid their bill--or someone who just didn't even sign up for a bill. This is not at all unusual. It is a very common sight. Do a lot of people get electrocuted here? Yes, as a matter of fact, they do. But not most who do this job. I've seen guys climb up an electric pole in a matter of a few seconds, as if they were climbing a coconut tree. No ladder, nothing. Of course, the more sophisticated have ladders. Does anyone report this? Why bother? The electric company is well aware that I'm in an apt. house with five apts. of which only two of us have accounts. Yet somehow, all five of us, including the cop who lives upstairs (without an account), have electricity in our apts. In fact, there are huge sectors of homes where people are even putting in air conditioning(!) and don't pay a nickel. The electric company is aware of it. So I pay my bills, and mind my own business.

Random garbage collection, election parades, and electricity thieves, are all just part of this Dominican Life.

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Gangs of thieves in licensed public cars

Now I've been pickpocketed many times. I try to learn each time, so that at least they can't get me the same way twice. But this time they did. And that kind of makes me mad!

There is a ruse they use in the public car systems here. First of all, you have to have a public car. You put three women in the back, and the driver and one other man up front. (Remember, two passengers must squeeze into the front bucket seat.) The one male passenger up front has a bandage around his leg, and he is trying to attract your attention to that.  He pretends to be uncomfortable; your position is causing him pain. Meanwhile, he robs you and passes off your money to the ladies behind.  The driver keeps your fare in his hand, so that he can quickly return it and pretend to be going elsewhere, once they have successfully robbed you.

Well, I got in the car. The first thing that made me suspicious was the leg. I'd already been robbed before that way. See pickpockets are like magicians. They distract you from what you should be looking at, while they work their magic. As soon as he started acting like he needed to adjust his seating, when he obviously didn't, I said, "Let me out. I've been robbed like this before." Instantly the driver handed me my money and dropped me off. Problem was, they already had my money. I had a buttoned shirt pocket with nearly $30 in it. Additional money was in my jeans pocket, and that I had been protected, while I forgot about the shirt pocket. I'm sure they had a good laugh.

I didn't even realize they had gotten that money till I got home.  I've been kicking myself ever since, for getting robbed the same way as before. Well, not exactly the same. The last time they got my jeans pocket. In fact, no one has ever tried to rob my shirt pocket before. You have to be pretty skilled to get away with that. Now I know that it is also a target, I have to change my style.

Next time I am going to try to think fast enough to get the license number. But then, would the police even care if I gave it to them?

One of the nice things about belonging to God, is that I know that he will take care of that gang. They think they will get away with their evil-doing, but it's not going to happen. Their payday will come.

Being robbed is not unusual. Ask anyone. It's a very real part of this Dominican Life.


Here is a post script: I was talking with a driver of a public car, and told him that I had recently been robbed on his route. He asked if it was the guy with the "hurt" leg. I told him it was. He informed me that the police know about this man, but they don't do anything about him, that he probably pays them off. When I mentioned it was not only him, but a gang, he said yes, that he knew.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Coming soon, Semana Santa

Yes, it's that time of year again. Easter week. Time to break out the big pots and make the traditional "habichuelas dulces" (sweet beans.)

It's a party week. Lots of alcohol will be drunk this week. There will be loud music at all hours of the day and night, in all the barrios--that is, even more than the norm, which is already a lot.

It's also beach week. All the schools will be out, and lots of families will be getting together either at the beach, or in home towns long forsaken for the bustle of the capital.

Meanwhile, the church will be busy telling everyone that they should not go to the beach.

Happens every year. It's just part of this Dominican Life.

Friday, March 19, 2010

living with the mafia

If you live in the DR, you live with a transportation system known as "the owners of the country." The transportation system shuts down the country, whenever it chooses, and there is little the government can do at the moment of crisis, but cave into their demands. Nevertheless, the government is doing what it can for the long term, setting up alternate means of transportation such as the metro. The unions were very angry at the inception of the metro, because it broke up their monopoly, and threatens to reduce their ability to control the country.

How am I affected, an expat living here, using public (privately owned) transportation?

Earlier this week, I was going out to do some work. When I reached the corner where I normally catch my public car--similar to catching a bus in the US, but it is a car on a route instead--I found the transportation mafia had two people working there. As a result, where normally two or three people are waiting for transportation, there were nine or ten. The "workers" were there to scare off the competition. One was armed with a stick. It wasn't even as big as a baseball bat, which often is what they have. But the threat behind it was clear. Either you don't compete with us, or we will destroy your car--or you.

In case you think I'm exaggerating, here is a local news bit from close to the same area I was going, and around the same time. killings

Who are they after? Well, primarily they are protecting their routes from "pirates." Pirates are cars or buses that are unlicensed by the unions, and usually unlicensed by the government as well. So technically they are illegal anyway, I guess. But the truth is, the government is well aware of their functioning, and for the most part looks the other way. Occasionally they will go out and begin checking papers, but that is not something strictly enforced, as I said.  When the pirates  don't function, there simply isn't enough transportation to go around, and that is just how it is. The government knows they are needed. They would have them all licensed if they could manage it.

Enter the mafia, aka unions. When their routes get a little too cluttered with pirates, they put out their workers to intimidate the pirates, and get them off their routes. Basically, the pirates either go to another route, or just lay off for a few days till the mafia agents go away. Make no mistake; the drivers are afraid of the union operatives. Even the union drivers are afraid of them, if they stray into someone else's territory.

In the meantime, while the unions intimidate the pirates,  the rest of us have longer waits for transportation.

Why take public cars? Public cars licensed by the government are rumored to be safer than those which aren't. I know that I've been robbed in a green/yellow topped licensed cars before, and one time I foiled a robbery attempt in one. Both times were groups of three, which included the driver himself, that were in on the robbery attempt. This has never happened to me in a "pirate" car, although it certainly could. Several other times I have either been pickpocketed, or an attempt has been made to pickpocket me, on the licensed cars; these were where the driver was not in on the gig. Thus far, I've never had any of these problems in a pirate car, although they certainly could happen.

My point is; neither is especially safe. When you take a pirate, you look for certain things. If the car isn't pretty broken down looking, usually with a cracked windshield and door handles that are dysfunctional, it probably hasn't been used much as a public car.  If it is in really nice shape, you'd love the comfort of it, but the chances are somewhat greater that it is a group of thugs out to mug you, or at least pickpocket you. Maybe it's just a newer car? Yeah, maybe. But do you want to take that chance?

At any rate, the transportation mafia has been around for a long time. They have lost some power during the last few years, (but the drug people have gained more).

What could the unions do to protect their routes? Well, the first thing they could do is begin to compete. Have nicer cars. Don't stuff so many people into them. Most of the union cars aren't fit to be on the road, they have so many things wrong with them inside and out. The unions should have their own inspection system. A car designed for three comfortable passengers (plus driver)  and four in a pinch, is used for a ridiculous six passengers. Only the driver gets an entire seat to himself.

Go where the people want to go. Sometimes the pirate makes a route where one is needed but not available. I have to take two cars to go to a place that is a five minute drive, but if I take a pirate, it is only one fare. If my best deal is with the licensed cars, I'll always take them.

Intimidation instead of competition is not democracy. But it is part of this Dominican Life.

Friday, February 12, 2010

Dentist office worship meetings

Today, I finally had to go to a dentist here. Before I left the States, five years ago, and when I had a dental plan, I told my dentist to fix everything he could, because I didn't know when the next time I'd have a dentist I could trust and afford.

Today was the day.

But like many things here, it came with the unexpected. First, I was told to be there at 2:30. Well, I got there a bit early, and the office was being cleaned. So they put a little seat outside for me to sit on while I waited for them to open.

Other people arrived after me, and eventually the office was opened. Once the waiting room was close to full, the TV was turned off (Barney, the purple creature had been on for the kids), and devotions were announced. Psalm 103 was read, from start to finish. Another worker asked if we had any prayer requests, then asked that we join her in prayer. Everyone stood to their feet respectfully.

The hygienist, and other workers sometimes sang along with the Christian music that was heard in every room, as they went about their work. 

No one complained. No one was offended. It was nice. It kind of reminds me of the major grocery chain I shop at. They close on Sundays. They print a Bible verse at the bottom of every receipt, and they play worship music. I love shopping there.
In short, for an American Christian, who is used to being oppressed in her own country, there is a refreshing freedom for Christians here. And this freedom is a normal daily part of This Dominican Life.




Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Generous and Sympathetic

It's been less than a week since our neighbor Haiti had a major earthquake. Dominicans were the first to respond. The DR has made hospitals available to the injured, and opened its port and an airport near the border to the use of the relief effort, when Haiti's own port and airport have issues that limit their use. They sent over heavy equipment to use in the rescue effort, along with water and food supplies. They sent medical personnel. They helped in more ways than I can list.

One time Jesus saw a woman giving two tiny coins into the temple treasury. There were lots of wealthy people giving big sums of money, but Jesus praised only this woman, because she gave all she had; she gave out of her poverty.

The DR is not a wealthy country. For its government to give such help to Haiti, an even poorer neighbor is truly sacrificial giving. The response of the Dominican people has been loving, sympathetic and generous--and this to a neighbor with whom they don't always get along well. They have set aside the issues between them, to help Haitians in their time of great tragedy.

Sacrificial giving to a neighbor in need, is not new to Dominicans. They do it daily on a smaller scale. It is just part of this Dominican Life.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Strikes

Looks like it is time for more strikes. Here, when the public transportation people want to up the fare, they usually begin a series of strikes. The fare went up 25% this week, but almost no one was paying the increase. First, it wasn't paid because it wasn't announced, and of course people weren't prepared with enough money on hand to pay it. It came as quite a surprise. And then, there were the conscientious objectors, like myself, who simply refused to pay it. You can do that at first, but eventually it is pay or don't ride.

Now will begin a series of strikes, where the transportation industry will force the issue by virtually shutting down the country. Some drivers don't agree with the increase themselves, but they don't dare not participate in the strikes. The government will negotiate, but the transportation folks aren't called "the owners of the country" for nothing.


Sometimes the strikes are punctuated with violence. Drivers who keep providing public transportation have had molotov cocktails thrown in their vehicles. 

A strike is a day off, whether or not you can afford it, or like it. The safest thing to do on the day of a general strike is to stay home. If it is only a transportation strike, then it is still safe to go out, however. It is easy to tell. Is the colmado (little grocery store) on the corner closed? Then stay home! Are they burning tires in the neighborhood? Stay home!

One of these days, the transportation folks are going to raise fares, and the people are going to say "enough is enough," and the riders are going to strike. But for now, we'll just whine and complain, and pay whatever they ask, because feeling powerless and accepting injustice is just part of this Dominican Life.