According to Dominican Today (domincantoday.com) "The figure for Dominicans who became green card holders or permanent [USA] residents [in 2009] was 24,496."
These are refugees, escaping from corruption, and difficult economic situations to the Promised Land, where every resident has a dollar tree in the back yard. How I wish that instead of leaving, there would be leadership arising from among the masses, to turn this country around!
Yep, the first ones would do so at the risk of their lives, but where are the Dominican Martin Luther Kings, and Rosa Parks'? Where are the ones who will say enough is enough and we aren't going to put up with it any more?
Seems like everyone just wants to take an easier way out...run to the US, or to Spain, and leave their country to become what it will.
If that is the case, then when will the government take the Cuban view and stop people from leaving? Who is going and who is staying? How many years can so many people leave a small island, till there is no one left?
Well, the poor people cannot get the visas, for the most part. The rich people do just as well here, and they can always get visas to visit. So the new middle class that has arisen, seems to be the ones who are most likely to end up in the US. These are also the ones who could actually bring about change in the country. They are better educated than the poor, and they know how to work.
It is hard to blame them for leaving, though. The injustice of daily life here wears on you. You work hard, and don't progress. You pay your bills, but are consistently cheated by those same companies you are paying. You suffer constant injustices. There is no recourse. You don't dare report anyone, because the person you report them to may be part of the same mafia, and there may be reprisals. You have no way of knowing who is legitimate and who is corrupt until you have brushed up against that person.
So there you have it. This Dominican Life is rough. People want out. They should stay. They should go. I don't know.
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Noche Buena & Reyes
Tonight is Noche Buena. the literal translation of that is good night, but of course it corresponds to Christmas Eve in the US and many other English speaking countries. This is the most important part of the Christmas holidays. Think of it as the Dominican Thanksgiving. Lots of food is prepared, everyone eats to their hearts content, and it is an important family time. There are family reunions, and a large amount of the population in the capital and other major cities will travel to their hometowns for the occaision.
One very popular song here, around Christmas time, is Feliz Navidad, by José Feliciano. People sing it, with both the English and Spanish parts, as best they can, much like the Dominican birthday song is often followed by a rendition of the somewhat English Hapi burtday tu yu. Meanwhile, my compatriots across the water are singing the same song, only they are butchering the Spanish part!
¡Feliz navidad!
While in the US, children are tucked in bed on Christmas eve, to await Christmas morning with excitement, Dominican children still have a while to wait. Christmas morning does not bring gifts. Instead, the sixth of January, King's Day, is when they will receive their gifts. This special day remembers the kings who brought gifts to the child Jesus.
An interesting thing is happening this year, that gives a little insight on how things work here. The government has been changing a lot of holidays, depending on how they fall, to make things more convenient for work and education, mostly creating three day weekends. In the case of King's day this year, the 6th falls on a Wednesday. Normally the school holiday extends through the seventh, recognizing that many people are traveling back home from their native towns on that day, and would not be back in time for school. But this year, that would mean coming back from a three week break for a single school day. The weekend would follow. They are well aware that no one would bother to attend that day.
So they had the idea to change the holiday to Monday, the fourth of January. This means that the teachers are expected back on the fifth, and the students on the real King's Day! You can be assured that no one will be returning to classes till Monday the 11th, no matter what the government says. It just won't happen. In fact, it is quite common for Dominican students to take an extra week of vacation after both Holy Week and Christmas breaks, without permission. The teachers may return, but the student population will be missing.
This would be comparable to telling Americans, "This year we are moving Christmas day to the 23rd!" Who would listen? It was obviously done with good intentions, and it would have been nice, were it possible, so that the students would not miss so much school. In my informal survey of neighbors and friends, most were not even aware of it, and once informed, proclaimed that they were sure no one would go, and they certainly were not sending their children.
¡Feliz año nuevo from This Dominican Life!
One very popular song here, around Christmas time, is Feliz Navidad, by José Feliciano. People sing it, with both the English and Spanish parts, as best they can, much like the Dominican birthday song is often followed by a rendition of the somewhat English Hapi burtday tu yu. Meanwhile, my compatriots across the water are singing the same song, only they are butchering the Spanish part!
¡Feliz navidad!
While in the US, children are tucked in bed on Christmas eve, to await Christmas morning with excitement, Dominican children still have a while to wait. Christmas morning does not bring gifts. Instead, the sixth of January, King's Day, is when they will receive their gifts. This special day remembers the kings who brought gifts to the child Jesus.
An interesting thing is happening this year, that gives a little insight on how things work here. The government has been changing a lot of holidays, depending on how they fall, to make things more convenient for work and education, mostly creating three day weekends. In the case of King's day this year, the 6th falls on a Wednesday. Normally the school holiday extends through the seventh, recognizing that many people are traveling back home from their native towns on that day, and would not be back in time for school. But this year, that would mean coming back from a three week break for a single school day. The weekend would follow. They are well aware that no one would bother to attend that day.
So they had the idea to change the holiday to Monday, the fourth of January. This means that the teachers are expected back on the fifth, and the students on the real King's Day! You can be assured that no one will be returning to classes till Monday the 11th, no matter what the government says. It just won't happen. In fact, it is quite common for Dominican students to take an extra week of vacation after both Holy Week and Christmas breaks, without permission. The teachers may return, but the student population will be missing.
This would be comparable to telling Americans, "This year we are moving Christmas day to the 23rd!" Who would listen? It was obviously done with good intentions, and it would have been nice, were it possible, so that the students would not miss so much school. In my informal survey of neighbors and friends, most were not even aware of it, and once informed, proclaimed that they were sure no one would go, and they certainly were not sending their children.
¡Feliz año nuevo from This Dominican Life!
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Christmas
The Christmas season is a lot more extended in this country than in my own. It began this year, a few weeks before Thanksgiving Day (not celebrated here, of course.) To put it in musical terms, it does a crescendo then a decrescendo, starting mid to late November, and ending around mid January.
December is looked forward to for many reasons. One, there is generally not so very much work done, apart from retail sales and related work. Basically, if you need something done, you don't try to get it done this month.
Also, this is a month of family, and family rules here. This is the month that you will go back to your hometown and see all your family and friends there. You will eat a delicious feast on Noche Buena, Christmas Eve, and you will get double pay for the month. (Yep, it's a law; you get double pay.)
For an American living here, and after all, that is the point of this blog, to give an American impression of middle-class Dominican life--it is the noisiest time of the year. Of course, if you live in the wealthy areas, you won't generally have any problem. But if you live on this side of the river...well, let's just say, get out your earplugs.
Neighbors that previously kept their music at least below the pain threshold, although it was quite loud, now feel that in the spirit of the season, they must turn it up even higher. Your cement walls aren't vibrating, but you are!
It's also the time of year when a lot of drinking happens. I'm not sure but what it's always that time of the year, but I do notice that each year around Christmas, the National Police start putting restrictions on noise, and curbing the hours of the drinking establishments.
For a lot of people it is like a two month party. Now people do still have to work, but there is just a lot more happening. Parties at schools, at churches, in neighborhoods--hey, it's not that different than at home, other than the noise level.
It is a time to be laid back and not be the tense American. Because getting annoyed that whatever you were promised for next week won't really get done till some time in January, will do you absolutely no good. Trying to get neighbors to lower the music will only cause them to dislike you; they won't lower it. It's a Christmas tradition, you blockhead foreigner! Instead, you have to come to accept the fact that these things are just part of this Dominican Life.
December is looked forward to for many reasons. One, there is generally not so very much work done, apart from retail sales and related work. Basically, if you need something done, you don't try to get it done this month.
Also, this is a month of family, and family rules here. This is the month that you will go back to your hometown and see all your family and friends there. You will eat a delicious feast on Noche Buena, Christmas Eve, and you will get double pay for the month. (Yep, it's a law; you get double pay.)
For an American living here, and after all, that is the point of this blog, to give an American impression of middle-class Dominican life--it is the noisiest time of the year. Of course, if you live in the wealthy areas, you won't generally have any problem. But if you live on this side of the river...well, let's just say, get out your earplugs.
Neighbors that previously kept their music at least below the pain threshold, although it was quite loud, now feel that in the spirit of the season, they must turn it up even higher. Your cement walls aren't vibrating, but you are!
It's also the time of year when a lot of drinking happens. I'm not sure but what it's always that time of the year, but I do notice that each year around Christmas, the National Police start putting restrictions on noise, and curbing the hours of the drinking establishments.
For a lot of people it is like a two month party. Now people do still have to work, but there is just a lot more happening. Parties at schools, at churches, in neighborhoods--hey, it's not that different than at home, other than the noise level.
It is a time to be laid back and not be the tense American. Because getting annoyed that whatever you were promised for next week won't really get done till some time in January, will do you absolutely no good. Trying to get neighbors to lower the music will only cause them to dislike you; they won't lower it. It's a Christmas tradition, you blockhead foreigner! Instead, you have to come to accept the fact that these things are just part of this Dominican Life.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Curious
My work involves teacher training for teachers of deaf children. As I was doing a literacy workshop with some teachers yesterday, I remarked that it was important for the students to write original sentences--onces that they made up themselves, and that were not copied from any source. (Because of their deafness, the children are just learning Spanish, much like a foreigner would learn it.) The teachers looked at me as if I were from Mars.
Now I have had hints before that maybe not much writing (as opposed to copying) was going on here. Both children and adults (college students) who had borrowed my internet for a school paper inevitably just copied exactly what they found from the net. The children usually rewrote in in their own handwriting. I cannot say if the adults did that or not. But no one seemed to be concerned with plagarism.
After yesterday's reception of my statement, I asked a friend if her children, in fourth and fifth grade, ever had to write a story or true account that was original with them. She responded, "You mean dictation?" I explained that no, I meant something that they did not copy or get from any other source, something that was original with them. She thought a moment and said that she didn't remember them ever mentioning that kind of assignment to her. She called them in and asked them if they had ever had that kind of homework in their years of school. The fifth grader responded that yes, last year he had one assignment like that. The mom asked to see it. The son brought out last year's notebook and found it in a few minutes. It had a story which seemed to be nonfiction. She remarked, "No, you must have copied that. You don't have an uncle by that name, and that never happened to you." I allowed, though, that maybe he wrote it as a fiction story. Still, having only one creative writing assignment in five or six years of school seemed rather curious to me.
This Dominican Life.
Now I have had hints before that maybe not much writing (as opposed to copying) was going on here. Both children and adults (college students) who had borrowed my internet for a school paper inevitably just copied exactly what they found from the net. The children usually rewrote in in their own handwriting. I cannot say if the adults did that or not. But no one seemed to be concerned with plagarism.
After yesterday's reception of my statement, I asked a friend if her children, in fourth and fifth grade, ever had to write a story or true account that was original with them. She responded, "You mean dictation?" I explained that no, I meant something that they did not copy or get from any other source, something that was original with them. She thought a moment and said that she didn't remember them ever mentioning that kind of assignment to her. She called them in and asked them if they had ever had that kind of homework in their years of school. The fifth grader responded that yes, last year he had one assignment like that. The mom asked to see it. The son brought out last year's notebook and found it in a few minutes. It had a story which seemed to be nonfiction. She remarked, "No, you must have copied that. You don't have an uncle by that name, and that never happened to you." I allowed, though, that maybe he wrote it as a fiction story. Still, having only one creative writing assignment in five or six years of school seemed rather curious to me.
This Dominican Life.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Friendly neighbors
One of the most wonderful things about middle class DR, is that you really live in a community. People know each other. People help each other. People watch out for each other. People visit each other. People share with a neighbor in need. I am fearful that this will pass, as it did in the South in the US, once AC started keeping everyone inside. But for now, we have this time together.
Yes, sometimes the neighbor's music is outrageously loud. But if he sees someone breaking into my apt., he is going to stop them. Being a good neighbor and having good neigbors for me is a real positive in This Dominican Life.
Yes, sometimes the neighbor's music is outrageously loud. But if he sees someone breaking into my apt., he is going to stop them. Being a good neighbor and having good neigbors for me is a real positive in This Dominican Life.
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Un día en el parque
Friday we took 33 kids and several adults down to a large local park. Now you might think it would be necessary to keep a tight rein on those kids, so that nothing would happen, and no one would get lost.
The reality is, that it wasn't necessary! Togetherness is built right into the culture. The kids didn't run off alone, even though they were basically given the run of the park. Instead, they stayed in groups. That's what they like. The younger kids naturally stayed close to the adults. No one had to tell them that, and as a result the adults didn't have to watch kids closely. Older kids naturally kept an eye on younger kids that wanted to see something in a different location of the park.
The first time I went on an outing like this is was downright scary for me. It was hard to relax and enjoy it when I saw that there was basically no accounting or security. But when I saw a group of 300 kids all get on the buses when it was time to leave--not one missing, yet no roll call held--I realized there was nothing to worry about.
Don't think it is negligence; it isn't. Don't think these kids aren't protected; they are.
It's just another amazing example of how society works in this Dominican Life.
The reality is, that it wasn't necessary! Togetherness is built right into the culture. The kids didn't run off alone, even though they were basically given the run of the park. Instead, they stayed in groups. That's what they like. The younger kids naturally stayed close to the adults. No one had to tell them that, and as a result the adults didn't have to watch kids closely. Older kids naturally kept an eye on younger kids that wanted to see something in a different location of the park.
The first time I went on an outing like this is was downright scary for me. It was hard to relax and enjoy it when I saw that there was basically no accounting or security. But when I saw a group of 300 kids all get on the buses when it was time to leave--not one missing, yet no roll call held--I realized there was nothing to worry about.
Don't think it is negligence; it isn't. Don't think these kids aren't protected; they are.
It's just another amazing example of how society works in this Dominican Life.
Monday, November 9, 2009
Garbage
The garbage truck has not gone down my street for over three weeks. Explanation? I was told that the truck is broken down. The solution has been for everyone in the area to pay a man with a wheelbarrow to dump their garbage in front of a local school, where garbage is picked up daily. There are also signs painted on the wall, saying that garbage should not be dumped there. This Dominican Life.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Reminders of God are everywhere
One of my favorite things about the Dominican Republic has to be the freedom of speech Christians enjoy here. In the US, Christians have been pretty much silenced. But here, Christians are quite vocal, and people aren't silly enough to be offended by it.
You go down the street and you see a bus pass you. On the front, it says "Only Jesus Saves." People will get into a public car with a greeting "God bless you" and even the nonbelievers in the car know their part. The correct response is "Amen." No one gets upset. They know that the person has just wished them well.
Looking at the names of businesses around town, you will see lots of Christian influence. For example, you might see the Glory to God Plaza, or the Resurrection Bakery.
One of my absolute favorites, however, is a large sign on the major thoroughfares of the city. It was put there by the government. It says, "Love your neighbor as yourself. Avoid accidents."
You cannot pass the whole day on the street without seeing numerous references to faith in God. It's a refreshing part of this Dominican Life.
You go down the street and you see a bus pass you. On the front, it says "Only Jesus Saves." People will get into a public car with a greeting "God bless you" and even the nonbelievers in the car know their part. The correct response is "Amen." No one gets upset. They know that the person has just wished them well.
Looking at the names of businesses around town, you will see lots of Christian influence. For example, you might see the Glory to God Plaza, or the Resurrection Bakery.
One of my absolute favorites, however, is a large sign on the major thoroughfares of the city. It was put there by the government. It says, "Love your neighbor as yourself. Avoid accidents."
You cannot pass the whole day on the street without seeing numerous references to faith in God. It's a refreshing part of this Dominican Life.
Friday, October 23, 2009
Frustrated pickpocket
Having just done a blog on the crime situation, and pickpockets in general, it was only fitting that shortly after, a pickpocket would attempt, thankfully unsuccessfully, to pick my pocket.
Here's how it happened. I walked up to a parked public car. The car fills up and then leaves, and it still needed a few more people. I noticed a woman waiting for someone to fill the more uncomfortable part of the front seat--that is the one where you are halfway sitting on the parking brake, and the driver is shifting right next to your leg--and decided to oblige her. The instant I got in, a man jumped in front of her so that he could sit next to me. His accomplice sat in the back, as did the other woman.
I immediately became suspicious. Why had this man been so rude? Why was it so important to him to sit there? He began the usual pocket fumble, as the driver began to drive off. I scooted over noticably and stared at his hand in his pocket. He asked the driver if the car went somewhere everyone knows it doesn't. Upon receiving a "no," he asked to be let out. The driver was irritated, but I was relieved.
Once the two were gone, we had to back up and wait for two more to fill the empty spaces. As we drove off, I told the driver that the man was a pickpocket, and the woman behind me confirmed it. He went around the block and came back to the starting point, to make sure the two hadn't just hopped into the next car. The guy who works with the company asked him why he had come back. When he told him about the pickpockets, the guy said, "Yes, I recognized them." He knew that they were pickpockets, but had simply watched them get into the car!
Half the way home, the driver gave the other woman and myself a lecture. "You should have told me. I would have taken care of him." He pulled a baseball bat out from under his seat. He said that they have a room upstairs in their office where they take pickpockets when they catch them, and that they break all their ribs, and beat them badly, and that they usually die of their injuries. He wasn't joking. Vigilante justice is just part of this Dominican Life.
Here's how it happened. I walked up to a parked public car. The car fills up and then leaves, and it still needed a few more people. I noticed a woman waiting for someone to fill the more uncomfortable part of the front seat--that is the one where you are halfway sitting on the parking brake, and the driver is shifting right next to your leg--and decided to oblige her. The instant I got in, a man jumped in front of her so that he could sit next to me. His accomplice sat in the back, as did the other woman.
I immediately became suspicious. Why had this man been so rude? Why was it so important to him to sit there? He began the usual pocket fumble, as the driver began to drive off. I scooted over noticably and stared at his hand in his pocket. He asked the driver if the car went somewhere everyone knows it doesn't. Upon receiving a "no," he asked to be let out. The driver was irritated, but I was relieved.
Once the two were gone, we had to back up and wait for two more to fill the empty spaces. As we drove off, I told the driver that the man was a pickpocket, and the woman behind me confirmed it. He went around the block and came back to the starting point, to make sure the two hadn't just hopped into the next car. The guy who works with the company asked him why he had come back. When he told him about the pickpockets, the guy said, "Yes, I recognized them." He knew that they were pickpockets, but had simply watched them get into the car!
Half the way home, the driver gave the other woman and myself a lecture. "You should have told me. I would have taken care of him." He pulled a baseball bat out from under his seat. He said that they have a room upstairs in their office where they take pickpockets when they catch them, and that they break all their ribs, and beat them badly, and that they usually die of their injuries. He wasn't joking. Vigilante justice is just part of this Dominican Life.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Cell phone number five...another one bites the dust & fun times in public cars
I must have a sign on my back that says "steal my cell phone." My fifth cell phone disappeared last week. It was stolen in a public car by pickpockets, as were two of the others. Another was stolen at knifepoint, along with my nice little camera. One was stolen from my friend about five minutes after I warned her to be very careful. I can't blame her, though. Those guys are pretty skilled.
You might think that I'm not being careful myself. Au contrair. I'm careful to the point of near paranoia! Pickpockets have attempted, unsuccessfully, to rob me many more times than they have done so successfully.
Part of living in a big city here is facing up to the crime rate. I have to take things into consideration when I decide to go someplace. Can I go in that area alone safely? If I take a picture here, will I be mugged for my camera a few minutes later? (Hint: take your indoor pictures with your nice camera, and get a disposable for your wandering around pictures.) I think about what time I can finish my shopping. It must be before dark, or I have to add in the cost of a taxi.
When I want to take a public car (functions like a bus on a route, but with less people), I have to quickly evaluate its safety. Does it have the green or yellow top? If not, it is a "pirate" and could be less safe. Does it look like it has been used for a public car? That is, does it look like it is three miles from the junkyard? Then it is probably safe to ride in--not necessarily mechanically, but probably it is a legitimate car on a route.
Yet I have been robbed in cars that were legit as well--they just go to another route to perpetrate their crimes.
Once I got in the front seat-- I must stop here and explain that the front seats are for three people. The left bucket seat is for the driver, and the right for not one, but two passengers. As I headed into the front seat, I see the other person is a man with a bandage wrapped around his ankle. He kept squirming and adjusting his position, and getting me to change mine, pretending that he was in pain. When it was obvious that no position would suit him, I said, I'll get in the back. The driver pulled over. As I reached for the back door handle, the two ladies inside said the back was "full." Now full, means you've paid four passages. If that was true, the driver would have told me no, it was full. They sped off. I found that I had been relieved of my change purse. Every one in the car was part of the gang. The two women were there to make women feel comfortable entering, and to reach through the space between seats, and steal what they could.
Another time, there was another gang of four, and I was once again in the front seat. I paid my fare upon entering. The other guy kept acting strangely, putting his hand behind a briefcase-like canvas bag, and moving it around, while instructing me to open the window. He was trying to distract me in order to let the others rob me. I clung tightly to my back pack and kept saying, what are you doing? The man said to the driver, "let her out; she's going to be too much trouble." The driver returned my money and dropped me on the curb.
Once I was carrying a load of cash. (I now take a taxi if I have much cash on me.) A man hopped in the car ahead of me, rather than behind me as he should have. So I already knew something was up. Then he proceeded to rummage through his pockets. As we are sitting tightly, pocket to pocket, this is a favorite trick. It feels like he is in his pocket, but then suddenly he is in yours, and it feels the same. I knew immediately what he was up to. I slapped my hand down over my pocket, and glared at him. He asked the driver if the car went someplace it didn't go, then had the driver let him out because he was in the wrong car.
I could go on and on about all the times I had been robbed or someone had attempted to rob me. But there were also the times when I was leaving my umbrella or my keys, or my change purse was falling out of my pocket, and another passenger or a driver helped me out.
The fact is, any big city has its pickpockets. The difference in this one is, perhaps, that they are known to the drivers, and often to the police, but nothing is done about them.
You might think that I'm not being careful myself. Au contrair. I'm careful to the point of near paranoia! Pickpockets have attempted, unsuccessfully, to rob me many more times than they have done so successfully.
Part of living in a big city here is facing up to the crime rate. I have to take things into consideration when I decide to go someplace. Can I go in that area alone safely? If I take a picture here, will I be mugged for my camera a few minutes later? (Hint: take your indoor pictures with your nice camera, and get a disposable for your wandering around pictures.) I think about what time I can finish my shopping. It must be before dark, or I have to add in the cost of a taxi.
When I want to take a public car (functions like a bus on a route, but with less people), I have to quickly evaluate its safety. Does it have the green or yellow top? If not, it is a "pirate" and could be less safe. Does it look like it has been used for a public car? That is, does it look like it is three miles from the junkyard? Then it is probably safe to ride in--not necessarily mechanically, but probably it is a legitimate car on a route.
Yet I have been robbed in cars that were legit as well--they just go to another route to perpetrate their crimes.
Once I got in the front seat-- I must stop here and explain that the front seats are for three people. The left bucket seat is for the driver, and the right for not one, but two passengers. As I headed into the front seat, I see the other person is a man with a bandage wrapped around his ankle. He kept squirming and adjusting his position, and getting me to change mine, pretending that he was in pain. When it was obvious that no position would suit him, I said, I'll get in the back. The driver pulled over. As I reached for the back door handle, the two ladies inside said the back was "full." Now full, means you've paid four passages. If that was true, the driver would have told me no, it was full. They sped off. I found that I had been relieved of my change purse. Every one in the car was part of the gang. The two women were there to make women feel comfortable entering, and to reach through the space between seats, and steal what they could.
Another time, there was another gang of four, and I was once again in the front seat. I paid my fare upon entering. The other guy kept acting strangely, putting his hand behind a briefcase-like canvas bag, and moving it around, while instructing me to open the window. He was trying to distract me in order to let the others rob me. I clung tightly to my back pack and kept saying, what are you doing? The man said to the driver, "let her out; she's going to be too much trouble." The driver returned my money and dropped me on the curb.
Once I was carrying a load of cash. (I now take a taxi if I have much cash on me.) A man hopped in the car ahead of me, rather than behind me as he should have. So I already knew something was up. Then he proceeded to rummage through his pockets. As we are sitting tightly, pocket to pocket, this is a favorite trick. It feels like he is in his pocket, but then suddenly he is in yours, and it feels the same. I knew immediately what he was up to. I slapped my hand down over my pocket, and glared at him. He asked the driver if the car went someplace it didn't go, then had the driver let him out because he was in the wrong car.
I could go on and on about all the times I had been robbed or someone had attempted to rob me. But there were also the times when I was leaving my umbrella or my keys, or my change purse was falling out of my pocket, and another passenger or a driver helped me out.
The fact is, any big city has its pickpockets. The difference in this one is, perhaps, that they are known to the drivers, and often to the police, but nothing is done about them.
Friday, October 9, 2009
Lying is part of normal customer service here!
Customer service is a nightmare here.
I haven't made a post lately because my internet has been out. During two different outages, I lost 11 days of Internet service. The chances are I will not be reimbursed for at least five of those days, because their (choose one or more of the following) lazy/ inept/purposely deceitful customer service people did not bother to make a report of my complaint when I called. Therefore, according to them, it was not reported at that time, and cannot be credited.
The first time, there was a cable cut on a main road, and there was a general outage of Internet service for a large part of the city. Unfortunately, when the cable was repaired, I still didn't have Internet. I had no way of knowing that it was repaired already, so I didn't call back till the third day. They said to hold, and in a matter of a few seconds, I had Internet again.
The second outage proved to be much more complicated. Like the first, it began with a general outage, but this time limited to my area of town. I called on the first and reported it. It would be back on that night or at least by the morning.
IN fact, I was told that daily. I was promised that without a doubt, they would have it back on (fill in the blank) this afternoon, tomorrow morning, within 24 to 72 hours. Also I was told twice that a supervisor would call me. Not one of these promises came true for the first 7 days. Finally, on the 8th day, after probably 15 phone calls total, one lost day of work, and who knows how many hours lost on the eternal hold system, a technician came and replaced my defective modem. It took about 15 minutes for him to set it up and get it checked out. (He had to call the company, and they put him on hold too.) A speed test revealed supposedly the correct speed, but trying to play a youtube video proved that I was not really getting that kind of speed. They are undoubtedly throttling that site, and other popular sites, as that happens whether it is a peak hour or not.
I also brought to an end, almost, over three months of visits to my former phone company. My account is now at zero--or at least they claim it is. But they can't give me the paper to prove it unless I come back and stand in their line for 30 minutes or more. I've spent hours in their line. Every person who works there knows me, I've been there over and over again. I've been lied to repeatedly. In fact, when I tried to transfer my Internet service to my new location, I was lied to over and over (tomorrow, today, in three days etc.) until after an entire month, I was finally informed that they do not even offer service in my area!
The poor customer service is why many Dominicans just give up and let themselves be cheated. They pay bills they do not owe, because they know that the business will simply not correct them. Customer service from the major services here routinely lie to their customers. Sadly, that is just part of this Dominican Life.
I haven't made a post lately because my internet has been out. During two different outages, I lost 11 days of Internet service. The chances are I will not be reimbursed for at least five of those days, because their (choose one or more of the following) lazy/ inept/purposely deceitful customer service people did not bother to make a report of my complaint when I called. Therefore, according to them, it was not reported at that time, and cannot be credited.
The first time, there was a cable cut on a main road, and there was a general outage of Internet service for a large part of the city. Unfortunately, when the cable was repaired, I still didn't have Internet. I had no way of knowing that it was repaired already, so I didn't call back till the third day. They said to hold, and in a matter of a few seconds, I had Internet again.
The second outage proved to be much more complicated. Like the first, it began with a general outage, but this time limited to my area of town. I called on the first and reported it. It would be back on that night or at least by the morning.
IN fact, I was told that daily. I was promised that without a doubt, they would have it back on (fill in the blank) this afternoon, tomorrow morning, within 24 to 72 hours. Also I was told twice that a supervisor would call me. Not one of these promises came true for the first 7 days. Finally, on the 8th day, after probably 15 phone calls total, one lost day of work, and who knows how many hours lost on the eternal hold system, a technician came and replaced my defective modem. It took about 15 minutes for him to set it up and get it checked out. (He had to call the company, and they put him on hold too.) A speed test revealed supposedly the correct speed, but trying to play a youtube video proved that I was not really getting that kind of speed. They are undoubtedly throttling that site, and other popular sites, as that happens whether it is a peak hour or not.
I also brought to an end, almost, over three months of visits to my former phone company. My account is now at zero--or at least they claim it is. But they can't give me the paper to prove it unless I come back and stand in their line for 30 minutes or more. I've spent hours in their line. Every person who works there knows me, I've been there over and over again. I've been lied to repeatedly. In fact, when I tried to transfer my Internet service to my new location, I was lied to over and over (tomorrow, today, in three days etc.) until after an entire month, I was finally informed that they do not even offer service in my area!
The poor customer service is why many Dominicans just give up and let themselves be cheated. They pay bills they do not owe, because they know that the business will simply not correct them. Customer service from the major services here routinely lie to their customers. Sadly, that is just part of this Dominican Life.
Monday, September 14, 2009
out of gas
A few days ago a friend and I took a taxi home. Now the first thing you need to know is that taking a Taxi home from school costs a little less than $5. A taxi is what you use when it rains, when you have something large to carry, or when you go wild at the grocery store. Of course if you spend a certain amount at the grocery, they will take your purchase home for you. But I digress.
Anyway, we were in the taxi, and suddenly it started going very slowly. The driver informed us that he was running out of gas, but that the gas station was very close, and he was sure we could make it. We weren't very concerned, because it was on the car route, so the worst case scenario was that we would have to take a public car.
Oh, did I mention that most of the public cars and a good amount of the taxi's run on propane gas? That's right, cooking gas. The tank is in the trunk.
The driver got out and fiddled with the tank, thinking he could get a few more miles out of it, but was unsuccessful. About that time, another car came up behind and offered us a push. So he pushed us to the top of the hill, and from there we were able to coast into the gas station. The drivers of public transportation are always helping each other out.
This isn't the first time I've run out of gas in a taxi. The thing about propane gas tanks is that it is hard for the drivers to know just how much gas they have left.
Ahhh this Dominican Life.
Anyway, we were in the taxi, and suddenly it started going very slowly. The driver informed us that he was running out of gas, but that the gas station was very close, and he was sure we could make it. We weren't very concerned, because it was on the car route, so the worst case scenario was that we would have to take a public car.
Oh, did I mention that most of the public cars and a good amount of the taxi's run on propane gas? That's right, cooking gas. The tank is in the trunk.
The driver got out and fiddled with the tank, thinking he could get a few more miles out of it, but was unsuccessful. About that time, another car came up behind and offered us a push. So he pushed us to the top of the hill, and from there we were able to coast into the gas station. The drivers of public transportation are always helping each other out.
This isn't the first time I've run out of gas in a taxi. The thing about propane gas tanks is that it is hard for the drivers to know just how much gas they have left.
Ahhh this Dominican Life.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Looking through American eyes
I'm going to have a housemate! We need lots of help at the deaf school, and she is coming to be a volunteer this year. She will do work for which it is very difficult to find qualified Dominicans.
But where will she stay? I looked through the two bedrooms which are possibilities. One is my office, and full of office stuff, of course. The second is basically a warehouse for school materials that we cannot keep at the school all the time for space reasons. So they go back and forth as needed.
The more I look at them through American eyes, the more I'm afraid she will be horrified and immediately want to find another place. Both rooms have water damage and peeling paint. And the color of paint is a sort of royal blue. It's a very inexpensive paint, and basically makes the rooms look like a cheap bar. There is not a lot of point to repainting, because as soon as the apt. above, currently vacant, gets rented again, the water damage will continue. Oh, and the mold that appears on all the wooden doors, and various other surfaces in the house...I forgot about that. In a word, it's all pretty ugly. It's not a healthy place to live because of the vermin.
There's a rat--yes, a rat---that runs around here at night. Correction: it's probably a family, or maybe even a tribe of rats. But I've never seen more than one at a time, at least. There are cockroaches, although not huge amounts. With no screens on the window, it is easy for rats and roaches to get in.
The electricity is off about fifty percent of the time, though we do have car batteries and an inverter that will at least power the lights and other things that aren't heavy users of electricity.
But what can I do? This is the way I live, and this is the way my neighbors live. Peeling paint, leaky roofs, rats, and roaches are not such a big deal. We take it all in stride, as a normal part of this Dominican Life.
But where will she stay? I looked through the two bedrooms which are possibilities. One is my office, and full of office stuff, of course. The second is basically a warehouse for school materials that we cannot keep at the school all the time for space reasons. So they go back and forth as needed.
The more I look at them through American eyes, the more I'm afraid she will be horrified and immediately want to find another place. Both rooms have water damage and peeling paint. And the color of paint is a sort of royal blue. It's a very inexpensive paint, and basically makes the rooms look like a cheap bar. There is not a lot of point to repainting, because as soon as the apt. above, currently vacant, gets rented again, the water damage will continue. Oh, and the mold that appears on all the wooden doors, and various other surfaces in the house...I forgot about that. In a word, it's all pretty ugly. It's not a healthy place to live because of the vermin.
There's a rat--yes, a rat---that runs around here at night. Correction: it's probably a family, or maybe even a tribe of rats. But I've never seen more than one at a time, at least. There are cockroaches, although not huge amounts. With no screens on the window, it is easy for rats and roaches to get in.
The electricity is off about fifty percent of the time, though we do have car batteries and an inverter that will at least power the lights and other things that aren't heavy users of electricity.
But what can I do? This is the way I live, and this is the way my neighbors live. Peeling paint, leaky roofs, rats, and roaches are not such a big deal. We take it all in stride, as a normal part of this Dominican Life.
Friday, August 28, 2009
Do tell!
Where I grew up, you don't ask people certain questions. Now I'm sure that there are forbidden questions here too--they just aren't the same ones I'm used to. I'm not in Kansas anymore.
Today, I was on my way home in a taxi. The driver asked me why I was here, how long I had lived in my apt., where I was born, who lives with me, am I married?, what about children?, how much does my apt. cost? What was I doing at the place he picked me up? Where do I work?--and a bunch of other stuff. Some things I answered, sometimes vaguely, and other questions I avoided.
As an American, I've been taught from a young age not to tell strangers--especially strange men, certain info. It can put me in danger. But here, no one thinks twice about asking very personal questions the very first time they meet you, even though they aren't meeting you through friends, but in an un-introduced context like a taxi ride.
This isn't the first time this has happened. It is a frequent occurrence. Dominican men will rarely converse with you without one of their first questions being about your marital status and the number of children you have. After that, they know better which tactic to use in their flirtations. I cannot even tell you how many taxi and public car drivers have proposed to me directly or hinted that they were interested in marrying me, two minutes after getting into their car! (They didn't say it was so they could get a visa to the US or share my dollar tree, but that was obvious.)
Usually I respond that I really only got in the car to get somewhere, not to find a husband, thanks anyway. And age doesn't matter. I've had 20 year olds doing this! These aren't the "sankies" of the resorts and hotels--professionals who spend their time wooing foreigners to try to divest them of some of their cash, and if they "get lucky" marry them and move to the Promised Land. These are just regular guys, working for a living. But I don't take it too seriously. I've learned that it is the custom,. Would a man really be macho if he didn't flirt with a woman? It's nothing to get upset about, just part of this Dominican Life.
Today, I was on my way home in a taxi. The driver asked me why I was here, how long I had lived in my apt., where I was born, who lives with me, am I married?, what about children?, how much does my apt. cost? What was I doing at the place he picked me up? Where do I work?--and a bunch of other stuff. Some things I answered, sometimes vaguely, and other questions I avoided.
As an American, I've been taught from a young age not to tell strangers--especially strange men, certain info. It can put me in danger. But here, no one thinks twice about asking very personal questions the very first time they meet you, even though they aren't meeting you through friends, but in an un-introduced context like a taxi ride.
This isn't the first time this has happened. It is a frequent occurrence. Dominican men will rarely converse with you without one of their first questions being about your marital status and the number of children you have. After that, they know better which tactic to use in their flirtations. I cannot even tell you how many taxi and public car drivers have proposed to me directly or hinted that they were interested in marrying me, two minutes after getting into their car! (They didn't say it was so they could get a visa to the US or share my dollar tree, but that was obvious.)
Usually I respond that I really only got in the car to get somewhere, not to find a husband, thanks anyway. And age doesn't matter. I've had 20 year olds doing this! These aren't the "sankies" of the resorts and hotels--professionals who spend their time wooing foreigners to try to divest them of some of their cash, and if they "get lucky" marry them and move to the Promised Land. These are just regular guys, working for a living. But I don't take it too seriously. I've learned that it is the custom,. Would a man really be macho if he didn't flirt with a woman? It's nothing to get upset about, just part of this Dominican Life.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
When you think you've seen it all...
You haven't. Now I'm very used to seeing people throw trash on the street. It is the norm here. When you are done with that bottle of water, chuck it out the window. Candy wrappers? No problem, throw them on the ground. Then it rains. And all the drains get stopped up from the trash, and it's the government's fault.
But the other day...well that one took the cake. First see this video
Now the next thing that happened was a young girl dragged a 50 gallon drum full of garbage over to the street, and started dumping it into our little flash flood. She wasn't the only one. Even though the trash truck does make regular stops in this barrio, and had been there only the day before, the people are accustomed to waiting for the flood, then dumping their garbage in it.
The garbage runs downward two more blocks, and then empties into a sort of canal. I don't know where it goes from there.
Once the rain stops, the water finishes running off in just five or ten minutes, and you can see the street again--now littered with garbage. The lady down the street told me that she's been living there for 16 years, and that is the way it's always been done since she's been there.
While I really think the barrio's problems with drainage are more serious than just some clogged drains, I'm sure that the trash doesn't help matters.
We have two tropical storms heading our way, and lots of rain coming up. This means flooding all over the city,at many intersections, the homes by the river and probably the same flooding over most of the nation, with some deaths as a result. Some of the flooding is self-inflicted, by people who thoughtlessly throw trash on the ground. Some is due to horrendously inadequate drainage systems. And sometimes it's just because the rain is so intense that no drainage system could handle it. But flooding is not anything unusual, just part of this Dominican Life.
But the other day...well that one took the cake. First see this video
Now the next thing that happened was a young girl dragged a 50 gallon drum full of garbage over to the street, and started dumping it into our little flash flood. She wasn't the only one. Even though the trash truck does make regular stops in this barrio, and had been there only the day before, the people are accustomed to waiting for the flood, then dumping their garbage in it.
The garbage runs downward two more blocks, and then empties into a sort of canal. I don't know where it goes from there.
Once the rain stops, the water finishes running off in just five or ten minutes, and you can see the street again--now littered with garbage. The lady down the street told me that she's been living there for 16 years, and that is the way it's always been done since she's been there.
While I really think the barrio's problems with drainage are more serious than just some clogged drains, I'm sure that the trash doesn't help matters.
We have two tropical storms heading our way, and lots of rain coming up. This means flooding all over the city,at many intersections, the homes by the river and probably the same flooding over most of the nation, with some deaths as a result. Some of the flooding is self-inflicted, by people who thoughtlessly throw trash on the ground. Some is due to horrendously inadequate drainage systems. And sometimes it's just because the rain is so intense that no drainage system could handle it. But flooding is not anything unusual, just part of this Dominican Life.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Kind of depressing
Sometimes I use the politically correct term "developing country," and sometimes I just have to say "third world"--or at least think it.
Today it was third world. Imagine sending your children to a school that has toilets that flush with a bucket, and no sink to wash their hands. Their classroom has no doors or windows, but does have openings where the doors and windows would be, if they did have them. Some of the classrooms have a zinc roof which leaks when it rains, and heats up the room like an oven when the sun shines. All have cement floors, one of which has tree roots pushing up the floor and breaking through the cement.
All the classroom furniture is a modgepodge of purchases from various places and various years, some new, some very beat up, with a variety of shapes and sizes. Desks aren't always the appropriate size for the ones sitting in them.
Despite all this, teaching will go on. Children will learn. Children will be glad they are at school with their friends.
Because the most important thing of all, is not the building, it is the teacher.
Poverty isn't fun at home, but it is no surprise at school. It's just part of this Dominican LIfe.
Today it was third world. Imagine sending your children to a school that has toilets that flush with a bucket, and no sink to wash their hands. Their classroom has no doors or windows, but does have openings where the doors and windows would be, if they did have them. Some of the classrooms have a zinc roof which leaks when it rains, and heats up the room like an oven when the sun shines. All have cement floors, one of which has tree roots pushing up the floor and breaking through the cement.
All the classroom furniture is a modgepodge of purchases from various places and various years, some new, some very beat up, with a variety of shapes and sizes. Desks aren't always the appropriate size for the ones sitting in them.
Despite all this, teaching will go on. Children will learn. Children will be glad they are at school with their friends.
Because the most important thing of all, is not the building, it is the teacher.
Poverty isn't fun at home, but it is no surprise at school. It's just part of this Dominican LIfe.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Refreshingly honest
I explained before about the issue of corruption here. It's very hard on a public official to be honest, because he has a lot of cultural pressure on him to take care of his friends and family. I heard it explained once, very accurately I think, that it isn't so much that Dominicans are dishonest, as that they are extremely loyal. And that means loyalty is first, and honesty second. So if it comes down to backing up your friend by telling a lie, or telling the truth, which causes problems for your friend, the lie usually prevails.
Recently I was near the Haitian border, visiting a family who lives there. As it happens, the husband is a public official. The first thing I noticed was that he was not living in an elegant house. Instead, he had built his own cement block house...or at least enough to live with. It still has a corrugated zinc roof, and is missing some essentials like inside doors and paint.
I mention the house, because immediately I thought of two possibities: either he is honest, and isn't accepting/demanding bribes, or his position isn't as important as I believed.
But then, we were driving around with the family, near the border, as they wanted to show me the road to Haiti. Suddenly, his alert eyes saw something amiss. He stopped to check it out. He dealt with the problem briefly. He made a couple of phone calls, but never did money come into the picture.
Then a second time, I saw him in action when he gave me a lift to the bus stop for my trip back home. A friend stopped him, and said, "You know, that was my land, yesterday..." the implication being, that if he had known, he would have overlooked the legal requirements. The official responded, "So because it just so happened that the land belonged to a friend of mine, I wasn't going to do my job?"
I have to tell you, the Dominican political sistem is overrun with corrupt officials. I've met them at every turn. But everyone is not corrupt. Now and then, you find an honest man or woman, just doing the job they are supposed to be doing, and not trying to get rich on bribes in the process. These refreshing people are also a part of this Dominican Life.
Recently I was near the Haitian border, visiting a family who lives there. As it happens, the husband is a public official. The first thing I noticed was that he was not living in an elegant house. Instead, he had built his own cement block house...or at least enough to live with. It still has a corrugated zinc roof, and is missing some essentials like inside doors and paint.
I mention the house, because immediately I thought of two possibities: either he is honest, and isn't accepting/demanding bribes, or his position isn't as important as I believed.
But then, we were driving around with the family, near the border, as they wanted to show me the road to Haiti. Suddenly, his alert eyes saw something amiss. He stopped to check it out. He dealt with the problem briefly. He made a couple of phone calls, but never did money come into the picture.
Then a second time, I saw him in action when he gave me a lift to the bus stop for my trip back home. A friend stopped him, and said, "You know, that was my land, yesterday..." the implication being, that if he had known, he would have overlooked the legal requirements. The official responded, "So because it just so happened that the land belonged to a friend of mine, I wasn't going to do my job?"
I have to tell you, the Dominican political sistem is overrun with corrupt officials. I've met them at every turn. But everyone is not corrupt. Now and then, you find an honest man or woman, just doing the job they are supposed to be doing, and not trying to get rich on bribes in the process. These refreshing people are also a part of this Dominican Life.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Mosquitoes
I am being eaten alive by mosquitos. The house I live in has water leaks all around it. It's hard to even say where the leaks are. There are at least three different connections to the city water supply!
Here we all have big black water tanks on top of our houses. My place started out as a house, and then the owners built two more floors on top with additional apartments to rent out--a common scenario here. There are at least three, maybe four water tanks on top of the house. When the water comes in from the street, they fill up, then overflow, and they just keep on overflowing until the city turns the water back off. As a result, my house is perpetually full of mosquitoes that we raise right here in our yard.
In the DR, mosquitoes carry the dreaded dengue. You can die from that. It seems like you don't get it so bad the first time, but the second time it can be fatal. (Malaria is a problem too, but that is more close to the Haitian border.) Anyway, mosquitoes are not just annoying, they are dangerous.
Scratch, scratch. I put on repellent daily, and am always spraying raid around. Seems like it affects me more than the mosquitoes. There are no screens on the windows of course, nor would it be easy to put them on, with this kind of window.
Mosquitoes are just a fact of this Dominican Life.
Here we all have big black water tanks on top of our houses. My place started out as a house, and then the owners built two more floors on top with additional apartments to rent out--a common scenario here. There are at least three, maybe four water tanks on top of the house. When the water comes in from the street, they fill up, then overflow, and they just keep on overflowing until the city turns the water back off. As a result, my house is perpetually full of mosquitoes that we raise right here in our yard.
In the DR, mosquitoes carry the dreaded dengue. You can die from that. It seems like you don't get it so bad the first time, but the second time it can be fatal. (Malaria is a problem too, but that is more close to the Haitian border.) Anyway, mosquitoes are not just annoying, they are dangerous.
Scratch, scratch. I put on repellent daily, and am always spraying raid around. Seems like it affects me more than the mosquitoes. There are no screens on the windows of course, nor would it be easy to put them on, with this kind of window.
Mosquitoes are just a fact of this Dominican Life.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Insanity
Today on my way home, in a taxi, since I had a heavy box to take, we passed the Malecon. That's the ocean front street. It's beautiful. Many of the nicest hotels in the country are located on that street. But what was everyone looking at? There was a woman walking up and down in the middle of the road, totally naked. That isn't the first time I've run into that situation. Once I was in the shopping district and the same happened. Then there was another time a naked man was walking down the street in Los Tres Brazos.
It is one of the sad facts that if you lose your mind here, you'd better have family who will take care of you, or else you may end up doing something really crazy in public, with no one to stop you.
Just one of the facts of this Dominican Life.
It is one of the sad facts that if you lose your mind here, you'd better have family who will take care of you, or else you may end up doing something really crazy in public, with no one to stop you.
Just one of the facts of this Dominican Life.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
How to give
One thing I've learned as a missionary is that I must be careful in giving. I don't want to create dependency. It's the old "teach the person to fish" idea. Living in a developing country, means being constantly surrounded by need. It screams out at me from every side. I cannot fix everything, and I cannot alleviate every need. Nor can I just ignore them. I have to be sensitive to God's voice, so I know when and how to give. I don't want to harm people with my giving, but I do want to be generous and give appropriately. I am always seeking the right balance.
The mission I'm on is one primarily of training. That is one of my favorite ways of giving. It's pretty low cost, because I'm mostly giving what's inside my brain. Dominican teachers glean through the training I give, and choose what works for their classroom. I show them how they can make teaching materials out of everyday items, like the caps off soda bottles. I show them how to speak with their hands in the Sign Language of the deaf community, so they can participate in their education. I explain to them how to reach children who are locked inside themselves with no communication skills.
This is the kind of giving that I hope contributes to a brighter tomorrow for this Dominican Life.
The mission I'm on is one primarily of training. That is one of my favorite ways of giving. It's pretty low cost, because I'm mostly giving what's inside my brain. Dominican teachers glean through the training I give, and choose what works for their classroom. I show them how they can make teaching materials out of everyday items, like the caps off soda bottles. I show them how to speak with their hands in the Sign Language of the deaf community, so they can participate in their education. I explain to them how to reach children who are locked inside themselves with no communication skills.
This is the kind of giving that I hope contributes to a brighter tomorrow for this Dominican Life.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Little cultural annoyances
There is one thing I often do wrong, culturally. I skip the intro and get right to my business. But that is wrong. Here, you don't just call someone up and say, "Hey, what time is the meeting tomorrow?" You call them and ask how they are first. After a few minutes you can ask about the meeting.
Now for me, this is just annoying. It wastes my time. It's even worse when you are calling on a cell and paying close to a quarter a minute. (On cells they do allow you to be more brief, with just a how-are-you, perhaps.) But looking at it from their point of view, I'm the annoying one. When is that gringa going to stop being so rude!?
I can't tell you how many times I've walked up to someone on the street, perhaps a street vendor, and asked for directions, with no intro. Often I've gotten back a cold stare, with the deliberate words "Good afternoon." That's a reminder that I've just been rude, and am being corrected. So I must say good afternoon, penitently, and then I can ask my question.
These are just simple cultural differences, and it illustrates vividly the difference between a time oriented and a relationship oriented culture. Neither is wrong or right. But the correct way, of course, is "When in Rome, do as the Romans do."
Now for me, this is just annoying. It wastes my time. It's even worse when you are calling on a cell and paying close to a quarter a minute. (On cells they do allow you to be more brief, with just a how-are-you, perhaps.) But looking at it from their point of view, I'm the annoying one. When is that gringa going to stop being so rude!?
I can't tell you how many times I've walked up to someone on the street, perhaps a street vendor, and asked for directions, with no intro. Often I've gotten back a cold stare, with the deliberate words "Good afternoon." That's a reminder that I've just been rude, and am being corrected. So I must say good afternoon, penitently, and then I can ask my question.
These are just simple cultural differences, and it illustrates vividly the difference between a time oriented and a relationship oriented culture. Neither is wrong or right. But the correct way, of course, is "When in Rome, do as the Romans do."
Friday, July 17, 2009
Helping your friends and family aka corruption
Here's a delicate topic. It is very hard to explain corruption in likeable terms. In fact, if it were not for corruption in the system here, we would probably have reliable electricity 24/7. In fact, we wouldn't have so many potholes in the street, or so many problems in society at every level. The poverty would not be gone, but would be greatly reduced.
Anything I say will be inadequate, because I haven't peeked into the higher echelons. But I have seen how it functions on a lower level. I suspect the higher levels have a similar basis. Try to imagine yourself in this society where you have obligations culturally. You've been taught this your whole life. How would you handle it?
The DR is very much a relationship based society. You take care of your friends, and you take care of your family. You are loyal to them. No matter what. (Possible exception: men who seem to be in a contest for how many women they can get pregnant don't always take care of their offspring.) You may prefer honesty, but if loyalty demands it of you, you will be dishonest. You won't see yourself as dishonest, however, you will just see yourself as loyal. You have taken great risks to provide for your family, friends, and political party.
When you get into a position with any power, you are expected to use that power to the advantage of not only yourself, but your friends and family. Lets make up an example. The position of power may just be that you are in charge of books that the government distributes to the poorer schools for the poorer school children. Even though you are not poor at this point, you are going to make sure your children get some of those books, so that you don't have to spend the money. Next, your sister, who knows you have your new position as bookmaster, is going to ask you for some for her children, who likewise are not in need. Well how can you turn down your own sister? All of the relatives will follow. Friends and neighbors who don't qualify for asistance will also want some. You cannot say no, because you would be breaking the rule of loyalty; you have an obligation to help. And you enjoy helping them. It makes you more popular. You enjoy a God-like ability to bestow things on those individuals who humble themselves to ask you.
Some of the books will get to poor people right away. Your sister will tell her maid that she can give her the books she needs. The maid doesn't make much, but she receives thousands of pesos in school books as a benefit of her employment.
By the way, later you will justify yourself in actually selling some of those books, for the same reason: to take care of you and yours. It is a short hop from giving away the actual books to selling them and using or giving away the money, and it isn't hard for you to bridge that gap logically.
The chances are, if you have attained any position of importance, however slight, that you aren't poor, and neither are your friends and relatives. You may be middle class or above. Why is that? Well, first of all, you have to have an education, and lower classes don't generally achieve even a HS diploma, much less college. Then there is the fact that people who have these positions have that obligation to family and friends to help them get similar positions, if it is in their power. Birds of a feather flock together. Who are your friends? People of a similar income and education. So when they need an assistant bookmaster, it will probably go to your nephew. You probably got your own bookmaster position from a relative or friend as well. And if you are allowed to hire people, you may put a few relatives on the payroll. They don't necessarily have to do anything, even to show up. Here these are called "botellas"--bottles. They collect a regular salary for doing nothing.
Here's an example from yesterday's news. I'm cutting out the name of the person, because it isn't germane to this discussion. [The official being investigated]"had even included more than 40 members of his own family circle on the payroll, which is said to be 10 times larger than what would be needed to run the... department efficiently." I assure you that no one was really surprised.
When aid comes to the country, usually it is directed to some government agency. All the people in that agency take what they want/need, and then they pass it on to the next lower level. Each level does this, till it finally arrives at the last rung of the ladder, those who are actually responsible to go out to the public and distribute the aid. But by that time the amount that is left is greatly reduced.
On a lower level. Someone sends pencils to a school. The director (principal) of the school is going to distribute the pencils to the teachers, after taking some for herself, and her friends & relatives. The teacher is going to distribute them to the students, after she gets her cut. What is left for the students? It may be a lot or a litte. The teacher may say that she doesn't have enough left for all the students to have a pencil, and give the pencils to either her own favorite students, or the students who are most in need.
I should add that your circle of obligation to family & friends also extends to political buddies. Anyone in your party who has done you a good turn has your loyalty. You are expected to support and vote for that person. If you have helped someone in a significant way to get elected, he owes you. And he will be loyal to you and pay you, perhaps by making you a botella.
This kind of thing happens at every level of society, down to the poorest. So it always amazes me when the finger is pointed for corruption. The difference in the poor and the wealthy is that the wealthy have more opportunity than the poor. If a poor person was in the position, he would do the same thing: he would be loyal to his friends, family, and political party, and he would take care of his own needs.
Loyalty is a wonderful trait in any society. How could things have gone so wrong from something so wonderful? How can this be fixed? As usual, the only solution is in the Lord Jesus. What needs to happen isn't that loyalty be abolished, but that honesty be elevated so that it isn't subservient to loyalty. This is a Biblical teaching. Be loyal AND be honest.
Anything I say will be inadequate, because I haven't peeked into the higher echelons. But I have seen how it functions on a lower level. I suspect the higher levels have a similar basis. Try to imagine yourself in this society where you have obligations culturally. You've been taught this your whole life. How would you handle it?
The DR is very much a relationship based society. You take care of your friends, and you take care of your family. You are loyal to them. No matter what. (Possible exception: men who seem to be in a contest for how many women they can get pregnant don't always take care of their offspring.) You may prefer honesty, but if loyalty demands it of you, you will be dishonest. You won't see yourself as dishonest, however, you will just see yourself as loyal. You have taken great risks to provide for your family, friends, and political party.
When you get into a position with any power, you are expected to use that power to the advantage of not only yourself, but your friends and family. Lets make up an example. The position of power may just be that you are in charge of books that the government distributes to the poorer schools for the poorer school children. Even though you are not poor at this point, you are going to make sure your children get some of those books, so that you don't have to spend the money. Next, your sister, who knows you have your new position as bookmaster, is going to ask you for some for her children, who likewise are not in need. Well how can you turn down your own sister? All of the relatives will follow. Friends and neighbors who don't qualify for asistance will also want some. You cannot say no, because you would be breaking the rule of loyalty; you have an obligation to help. And you enjoy helping them. It makes you more popular. You enjoy a God-like ability to bestow things on those individuals who humble themselves to ask you.
Some of the books will get to poor people right away. Your sister will tell her maid that she can give her the books she needs. The maid doesn't make much, but she receives thousands of pesos in school books as a benefit of her employment.
By the way, later you will justify yourself in actually selling some of those books, for the same reason: to take care of you and yours. It is a short hop from giving away the actual books to selling them and using or giving away the money, and it isn't hard for you to bridge that gap logically.
The chances are, if you have attained any position of importance, however slight, that you aren't poor, and neither are your friends and relatives. You may be middle class or above. Why is that? Well, first of all, you have to have an education, and lower classes don't generally achieve even a HS diploma, much less college. Then there is the fact that people who have these positions have that obligation to family and friends to help them get similar positions, if it is in their power. Birds of a feather flock together. Who are your friends? People of a similar income and education. So when they need an assistant bookmaster, it will probably go to your nephew. You probably got your own bookmaster position from a relative or friend as well. And if you are allowed to hire people, you may put a few relatives on the payroll. They don't necessarily have to do anything, even to show up. Here these are called "botellas"--bottles. They collect a regular salary for doing nothing.
Here's an example from yesterday's news. I'm cutting out the name of the person, because it isn't germane to this discussion. [The official being investigated]"had even included more than 40 members of his own family circle on the payroll, which is said to be 10 times larger than what would be needed to run the... department efficiently." I assure you that no one was really surprised.
When aid comes to the country, usually it is directed to some government agency. All the people in that agency take what they want/need, and then they pass it on to the next lower level. Each level does this, till it finally arrives at the last rung of the ladder, those who are actually responsible to go out to the public and distribute the aid. But by that time the amount that is left is greatly reduced.
On a lower level. Someone sends pencils to a school. The director (principal) of the school is going to distribute the pencils to the teachers, after taking some for herself, and her friends & relatives. The teacher is going to distribute them to the students, after she gets her cut. What is left for the students? It may be a lot or a litte. The teacher may say that she doesn't have enough left for all the students to have a pencil, and give the pencils to either her own favorite students, or the students who are most in need.
I should add that your circle of obligation to family & friends also extends to political buddies. Anyone in your party who has done you a good turn has your loyalty. You are expected to support and vote for that person. If you have helped someone in a significant way to get elected, he owes you. And he will be loyal to you and pay you, perhaps by making you a botella.
This kind of thing happens at every level of society, down to the poorest. So it always amazes me when the finger is pointed for corruption. The difference in the poor and the wealthy is that the wealthy have more opportunity than the poor. If a poor person was in the position, he would do the same thing: he would be loyal to his friends, family, and political party, and he would take care of his own needs.
Loyalty is a wonderful trait in any society. How could things have gone so wrong from something so wonderful? How can this be fixed? As usual, the only solution is in the Lord Jesus. What needs to happen isn't that loyalty be abolished, but that honesty be elevated so that it isn't subservient to loyalty. This is a Biblical teaching. Be loyal AND be honest.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Recycle and reuse
Dominicans are experts at recycling and reusing. Nothing of value gets left in the trash, and seldom does it arrive at the trash. Wealthy people in every country throw away their excess, and there are always poorer people looking to recycle what is still good.
But here, in the DR, there is not nearly as much good stuff thrown away. If my blow dryer breaks, I don't throw it away. I get it repaired. Or if I decide to buy a new one, I give it away to a friend. The friend will repair it for her use.
In fact, it is easy to get rid of anything I no longer use, by just setting it outside my gate. It will disappear in a matter of minutes, and be taken home by someone who will either use it or sell it, or give it to someone who needs it.
I don't throw bottles in the trash. I just set them outside. Sooner or later, a man who collects bottles will pick them up.
Some examples of reusing: Plastic soda bottles--the top is cut off, and the bottom is filled with water and stuck in the freezer. This provides a nice big block of ice, which is helpful for keeping your freezer cold during blackouts, and of course for its normal use in your drinks. The tops to the bottles? They make great checkers. You just use different colors for the different players. Tops to 5 gallon jugs (water cooler type) are used for baseballs when kids get together and play stickball in the street. I've also seen a cereal box used as a mitt! No wonder the Dominicans grow such excellent ball players.
This tendency to not throw anything away has occasionally been a problem for me at the school. I would find a plastic toy, pretty torn up. Perhaps a toy car with three wheels missing and sharp edges of the plastic sticking out. I would throw this out. The next day, I would come in and find it put back with the other toys. In fact, no matter how many times I threw it out, people always assumed it was in the trash by mistake and returned it. I found that the best way to get rid of something was to give it away. As the saying goes, "One man's trash is another man's treasure." And it was one less piece of plastic in the landfill.
All this reusing and recycling is good for the planet, and it's a normal part of this Dominican Life.
But here, in the DR, there is not nearly as much good stuff thrown away. If my blow dryer breaks, I don't throw it away. I get it repaired. Or if I decide to buy a new one, I give it away to a friend. The friend will repair it for her use.
In fact, it is easy to get rid of anything I no longer use, by just setting it outside my gate. It will disappear in a matter of minutes, and be taken home by someone who will either use it or sell it, or give it to someone who needs it.
I don't throw bottles in the trash. I just set them outside. Sooner or later, a man who collects bottles will pick them up.
Some examples of reusing: Plastic soda bottles--the top is cut off, and the bottom is filled with water and stuck in the freezer. This provides a nice big block of ice, which is helpful for keeping your freezer cold during blackouts, and of course for its normal use in your drinks. The tops to the bottles? They make great checkers. You just use different colors for the different players. Tops to 5 gallon jugs (water cooler type) are used for baseballs when kids get together and play stickball in the street. I've also seen a cereal box used as a mitt! No wonder the Dominicans grow such excellent ball players.
This tendency to not throw anything away has occasionally been a problem for me at the school. I would find a plastic toy, pretty torn up. Perhaps a toy car with three wheels missing and sharp edges of the plastic sticking out. I would throw this out. The next day, I would come in and find it put back with the other toys. In fact, no matter how many times I threw it out, people always assumed it was in the trash by mistake and returned it. I found that the best way to get rid of something was to give it away. As the saying goes, "One man's trash is another man's treasure." And it was one less piece of plastic in the landfill.
All this reusing and recycling is good for the planet, and it's a normal part of this Dominican Life.
Pretty Feet
Dominican women have pretty feet. In fact, feet are an important focus for grooming, from the poorest to the richest. I suspect the reason for this is because your feet just get so dirty here. There are still lots of dirt roads, and there are poorly maintained sidewalks and junk all over. So when you go out, your feet get dirty. I imagine it to be somewhat like it was in Jesus' day. He mentioned to his host once that he hadn't given him any water so he could wash his feet.
On one of my first stays in the DR, when I was here for just a three month mission, a Dominican woman I lived with ask me out of curiosity if American women take care of their feet. I found it an odd question. To me, it was like asking if we took baths! I replied that we did indeed.
But now, I understand what she meant. Just washing your feet is not enough.
A Dominican woman puts foot care as an important part of her grooming routine. She will usually have another person "fix" her feet, often at a hair salon. There are lots of women who offer in-home service as well. For about $4.50US you can get complete foot care, which includes a pedicure.
This means from a half hour to an hour of individual attention.First you soak your feet. Then you are given a vigorous exfoliation, where any calouses are filed down. A cream is applied. Your nails are cut, if needed, and cleaned and painted, with a design drawn on, if you like.
When all this is done, your feet are soft and pretty.
Now I am originally a shy person, although I've come out of my shell a lot since I grew up. But I still have attacks of shyness. For me to have someone else working on my feet was embarrassing. It was as if I had a slave! Like Peter, when he saw Jesus washing the other disciple's feet, he felt it put Jesus below him, in the place of a servant. After years of living here in the DR, I still had never "had my feet done." I was just too embarrassed! But recently I resolved that I must, because my ugly American feet just don't fit in here! (Not ugly in the US, but ugly by comparison with the pretty Dominican feet that surround me.) So I told the lady at the salon nearby, that when she was bored with nothing to do, to call me over, and she could do my feet.
She called me over in the afternoon. Now here I am, not exactly knowing how this works, and what do I find? A group of five men were in the salon, just hanging out and talking, while I was to have my first foot session ever. I was horrified. Nevertheless, I knew that to them, this was nothing; just something in their normal routine; even men have their feet cared for, although they paint the nails with clear polish if at all.
About a half hour later, I walked out with soft, pretty feet. This is a new part of this Dominican Life for me!
On one of my first stays in the DR, when I was here for just a three month mission, a Dominican woman I lived with ask me out of curiosity if American women take care of their feet. I found it an odd question. To me, it was like asking if we took baths! I replied that we did indeed.
But now, I understand what she meant. Just washing your feet is not enough.
A Dominican woman puts foot care as an important part of her grooming routine. She will usually have another person "fix" her feet, often at a hair salon. There are lots of women who offer in-home service as well. For about $4.50US you can get complete foot care, which includes a pedicure.
This means from a half hour to an hour of individual attention.First you soak your feet. Then you are given a vigorous exfoliation, where any calouses are filed down. A cream is applied. Your nails are cut, if needed, and cleaned and painted, with a design drawn on, if you like.
When all this is done, your feet are soft and pretty.
Now I am originally a shy person, although I've come out of my shell a lot since I grew up. But I still have attacks of shyness. For me to have someone else working on my feet was embarrassing. It was as if I had a slave! Like Peter, when he saw Jesus washing the other disciple's feet, he felt it put Jesus below him, in the place of a servant. After years of living here in the DR, I still had never "had my feet done." I was just too embarrassed! But recently I resolved that I must, because my ugly American feet just don't fit in here! (Not ugly in the US, but ugly by comparison with the pretty Dominican feet that surround me.) So I told the lady at the salon nearby, that when she was bored with nothing to do, to call me over, and she could do my feet.
She called me over in the afternoon. Now here I am, not exactly knowing how this works, and what do I find? A group of five men were in the salon, just hanging out and talking, while I was to have my first foot session ever. I was horrified. Nevertheless, I knew that to them, this was nothing; just something in their normal routine; even men have their feet cared for, although they paint the nails with clear polish if at all.
About a half hour later, I walked out with soft, pretty feet. This is a new part of this Dominican Life for me!
Monday, July 13, 2009
Friends & neighbors
This is an area where the Dominican Republic excels. In the US, you can live next door to someone for 20 years, and not know them. Here, well at least in the lower middle class neighborhood, and the poor areas, we all need each other, and we all depend on each other. You will get to know almost everyone in a short time. This makes for some great friendships.
Neighbor women will send over a serving of the special meal they made, and of course, the favor is returned from time to time.
Neighbor men are happy to help you move that heavy box from one room to the other. (Being a single woman, I try to make intentions very clear, and ask this favor while their wife is over for a visit.)
This week I had some interior house-painting to do. I was able to borrow the paint scraper from one neighbor, and the roller from another. And they know that I have tools likewise at their service. Of course there is a caveat; you get to know who can be trusted to return things in good condition, and who never gets around to it, or returns it in bad shape, just as in any part of the world.
When you need to get some place on time, be sure to allow a little extra, for if you run into an old acquaintance, or a recent one, you will want to stop and talk for a few minutes.
If you have an issue with the phone company, you can see which of your neighbors has a relative working there. And you will share your "wealth" of connections as well, with those you trust.
Neighbors here just naturally watch out for each other. At the apt. I used to live in, I heard about 8 shots one night, about 3AM. I got up and told my visitor to stay away from the windows. She went back to bed and so did I. The next day, I asked my landlady what the shooting was about. "Oh," she said, "The guy across the street saw a burglar coming up your stairs. He asked him if he knew you, and the guy took off running." Here's a neighbor that will even shoot at your burglars!
People still talk to each other here. You can get on a bus or in a public car, and strike up a conversation with your fellow passengers, or the driver of the car. They will be happy to share their views on religion and politics; two topics almost forbidden in the US.
There is a wonderful freedom of speech here, and you are not required to be PC. Just be friendly. That's an important part of this Dominican Life.
Neighbor women will send over a serving of the special meal they made, and of course, the favor is returned from time to time.
Neighbor men are happy to help you move that heavy box from one room to the other. (Being a single woman, I try to make intentions very clear, and ask this favor while their wife is over for a visit.)
This week I had some interior house-painting to do. I was able to borrow the paint scraper from one neighbor, and the roller from another. And they know that I have tools likewise at their service. Of course there is a caveat; you get to know who can be trusted to return things in good condition, and who never gets around to it, or returns it in bad shape, just as in any part of the world.
When you need to get some place on time, be sure to allow a little extra, for if you run into an old acquaintance, or a recent one, you will want to stop and talk for a few minutes.
If you have an issue with the phone company, you can see which of your neighbors has a relative working there. And you will share your "wealth" of connections as well, with those you trust.
Neighbors here just naturally watch out for each other. At the apt. I used to live in, I heard about 8 shots one night, about 3AM. I got up and told my visitor to stay away from the windows. She went back to bed and so did I. The next day, I asked my landlady what the shooting was about. "Oh," she said, "The guy across the street saw a burglar coming up your stairs. He asked him if he knew you, and the guy took off running." Here's a neighbor that will even shoot at your burglars!
People still talk to each other here. You can get on a bus or in a public car, and strike up a conversation with your fellow passengers, or the driver of the car. They will be happy to share their views on religion and politics; two topics almost forbidden in the US.
There is a wonderful freedom of speech here, and you are not required to be PC. Just be friendly. That's an important part of this Dominican Life.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
It's raining in my bathroom
Yes, once again, water is dripping from my ceiling. Now if I were not on the first floor with two floors above me, I might think of this as just the heavy rains filtering through the cement ceiling. That's very common here.
I was going to start painting some of my inside walls tomorrow, but now I'm thinking maybe I should wait. You have to let them dry out for a month or longer, once they've have water filtration problems. I had waited and waited, and now, just when it was time--gotta reset the clock for the bathroom and the bedroom next to it. And I'm not sure that filtration is not going to hit the other rooms as it did last time. At least this time the leak is much slower.
Other things that have happened in this apt.: The light fixture no longer works in one bedroom. I use that room as a storage room, so mostly I visit it during the day. Since I moved here, I have only turned on that light a few times, probably. Still, occasionally I need to look for something there after dark, and it is rather inconvenient to have to use a flashlight.
In the kitchen, behind the stove, the water pipes that were installed were used pvc in not so good shape. Friday, I noticed that the little rug I stand on to wash the dishes was soaked. Water is dripping from the pipes, running down the crack between the tiles, and passing under the stove.
I've decided not to repaint the whole apt., even though the recent paint job has been ruined in every single room. The reason for this is that I'm not confident it will last. Instead, I'm painting the parts that are the worst looking. Like the wall in my living room that has blue paint showing up in large blobs, up to two feet long, on a cream colored wall. This is where the paint peeled off due to um....hard to say. No preparation of the wall before painting. Using the cheapest paint possible. Watering down the paint to the point is is practically whitewash. Very high indoor humidity due to the previous plumbing problems. Pick one or more or add another. All I know is that it looks kind of bad.
Here, you cannot just call up your landlord to fix things. Once you are in the place you are pretty much on your own, except for external issues. (That does mean that they should fix the rain in the bathroom, though, since its source is external.) When you rent an apt., you usually sign a lease that says you have received it in good condition. Of course, you cannot get the apt. at all, if you refuse to sign it. There are verbal agreements made at the time. "We will fix this or that." Some landlords are honest, and will keep their word, although perhaps not as quickly as one would like.
Others will simply refuse to do anything. Dominican law, however, does support tenant's rights pretty well in some ways. And if the owner won't take care of something that is clearly their obligation to repair, such as a leaky roof, for instance, you can deposit the rent in a special bank account in a certain bank, and withhold it until the repairs are done.
There are also rent controls, that prevent the owners from raising the rent exorbitantly from year to year. Once your lease is up they can "ask for the house," giving you an excuse that Uncle Joe is coming back to the country and needs it to live in, and then once you are gone, re-rent it at a much higher price. But they cannot get that price from you, even though your contract expired after a year. If they want to keep you as a tenant (and they always want to keep me, because I pay the rent on time and even improve the place) then they keep the rent within the legal limits and Uncle Joe stays in NY.
But then, what do you want for $210USD for a large 3BR 2 bath apt? You get low rent in lower middle class areas. The annoying leaks and electrical problems come with that. It's all a part of this Dominican Life.
I was going to start painting some of my inside walls tomorrow, but now I'm thinking maybe I should wait. You have to let them dry out for a month or longer, once they've have water filtration problems. I had waited and waited, and now, just when it was time--gotta reset the clock for the bathroom and the bedroom next to it. And I'm not sure that filtration is not going to hit the other rooms as it did last time. At least this time the leak is much slower.
Other things that have happened in this apt.: The light fixture no longer works in one bedroom. I use that room as a storage room, so mostly I visit it during the day. Since I moved here, I have only turned on that light a few times, probably. Still, occasionally I need to look for something there after dark, and it is rather inconvenient to have to use a flashlight.
In the kitchen, behind the stove, the water pipes that were installed were used pvc in not so good shape. Friday, I noticed that the little rug I stand on to wash the dishes was soaked. Water is dripping from the pipes, running down the crack between the tiles, and passing under the stove.
I've decided not to repaint the whole apt., even though the recent paint job has been ruined in every single room. The reason for this is that I'm not confident it will last. Instead, I'm painting the parts that are the worst looking. Like the wall in my living room that has blue paint showing up in large blobs, up to two feet long, on a cream colored wall. This is where the paint peeled off due to um....hard to say. No preparation of the wall before painting. Using the cheapest paint possible. Watering down the paint to the point is is practically whitewash. Very high indoor humidity due to the previous plumbing problems. Pick one or more or add another. All I know is that it looks kind of bad.
Here, you cannot just call up your landlord to fix things. Once you are in the place you are pretty much on your own, except for external issues. (That does mean that they should fix the rain in the bathroom, though, since its source is external.) When you rent an apt., you usually sign a lease that says you have received it in good condition. Of course, you cannot get the apt. at all, if you refuse to sign it. There are verbal agreements made at the time. "We will fix this or that." Some landlords are honest, and will keep their word, although perhaps not as quickly as one would like.
Others will simply refuse to do anything. Dominican law, however, does support tenant's rights pretty well in some ways. And if the owner won't take care of something that is clearly their obligation to repair, such as a leaky roof, for instance, you can deposit the rent in a special bank account in a certain bank, and withhold it until the repairs are done.
There are also rent controls, that prevent the owners from raising the rent exorbitantly from year to year. Once your lease is up they can "ask for the house," giving you an excuse that Uncle Joe is coming back to the country and needs it to live in, and then once you are gone, re-rent it at a much higher price. But they cannot get that price from you, even though your contract expired after a year. If they want to keep you as a tenant (and they always want to keep me, because I pay the rent on time and even improve the place) then they keep the rent within the legal limits and Uncle Joe stays in NY.
But then, what do you want for $210USD for a large 3BR 2 bath apt? You get low rent in lower middle class areas. The annoying leaks and electrical problems come with that. It's all a part of this Dominican Life.
Friday, July 10, 2009
The reality of poverty
Yesterday I was shown a small building that had been abandoned. Any time you abandon a building, be it a house, or any other, the process of destruction begins. First sinks, toilets, and windows are removed, along with anything else of value that could be used in someone else's house. Then it becomes one giant bathroom, for every male that passes by. Drug addicts begin to use it as a place to stay. The spray paint comes out and vulgarities appear on the outside. Curiously, inside this one were painted pictures, also vulgarities,but painted with obvious artistic talent.
As we drove up, a woman came up to meet us. She is a squatter who lives in a tiny room in the abandoned property. She is a drug addict. Her six year old deaf son was tagging along with her. I "talked" to him a bit with sort of a home sign. He was responsive and bright. He doesn't go to school, and chances are he never will, so eventually that intelligence will be dimmed, as he suffers from extreme language deprivation
The mom said that she didn't have the money to send him to school. I'm sure that is true, since any money she gets she needs to feed her habit, and probably her income is tiny. I told her about the school, that she should bring her son over, knowing at the same time that it's unlikely she'll ever come.
Here, it isn't just a matter of reporting the situation to social services.
It's just a part of this Dominican Life.
As we drove up, a woman came up to meet us. She is a squatter who lives in a tiny room in the abandoned property. She is a drug addict. Her six year old deaf son was tagging along with her. I "talked" to him a bit with sort of a home sign. He was responsive and bright. He doesn't go to school, and chances are he never will, so eventually that intelligence will be dimmed, as he suffers from extreme language deprivation
The mom said that she didn't have the money to send him to school. I'm sure that is true, since any money she gets she needs to feed her habit, and probably her income is tiny. I told her about the school, that she should bring her son over, knowing at the same time that it's unlikely she'll ever come.
Here, it isn't just a matter of reporting the situation to social services.
It's just a part of this Dominican Life.
Friday, July 3, 2009
Working in the Dominican Republic
Some of the things provided by the labor laws here that are different:
The employees of a profit-making company share something like 10% of the profits. I'm not sure of the exact amount.
Despite these additions to the regular salaries, wages remain very low for the majority.
- An extra month's salary at Christmas--that is, workers get double pay that month.
- Six weeks before a baby's birth and six weeks after the baby's birth a woman gets paid leave.
- A worker gets three days paid leave upon the death of a parent, sibling, offspring, spouse, or grandparent.
- You get five days paid leave when you get married.
- A man gets two days paid leave when his wife or companion gives birth.
- Severence pay is huge. It accumulates from year to year, but is always based on the salary paid in the last year of work.
- A person gets 14 vacation days a year for the first five years, then four more after that.
- There are about a dozen paid holidays during the year.
The employees of a profit-making company share something like 10% of the profits. I'm not sure of the exact amount.
Despite these additions to the regular salaries, wages remain very low for the majority.
Blackouts & phones
We have daily blackouts here. It's helpful when you can track them, and more or less predict them. Sometimes they get into a rhythm. But now and then, they become unpredictable, and that makes for more difficulty. One thing I'm thankful for is that this area usually has electricity from 11:00 or 12:00 at night to about 7:00 in the morning. That allows for fans, which not only help keep you cool, but to keep the mosquitoes off too. The rest of the day has been rather unpredictable.
Right now the blackouts in this area are usually coming twice a day, and total about 12 hours out of each 24 hour period. That is more than usual. I think the norm is more like 8 hours a day. There is probably some major problem like several plants are shut down. That happens from time to time.
A note on phone service. It's bad. Customer service in both of the phone companies I've used has been dismal. Apart from that, there are other problems. When my phone was installed, a couple of weeks ago, it rang almost right away. It was a bill collector. It seems the person who previously had my number owes money to a number of banks, mainly with visa cards. Daily I receive recorded reminders from the banks that Sandra X's account is overdue and would she please pay it. I asked the phone company if there is any delay time between reassigning a number. Their response was that it could be a day, a month, or a year, before the number is reassigned. There isn't any requirement. I have two choices: get a new number, for which they will charge me about $15--and it will have no guarantee not to have the same problem--or call the banks and ask them to stop calling. They have no way to block the numbers, according to their rep.
I had already called the banks. They both assured me they would take care of it, but I could tell that they were suspicious that maybe I really was Sandra, and was lying to them. I received a call from a person asking for the Sandra soon after reporting to the bank. I suspect the bank was trying to catch her (or me) in a lie! At any rate, I just began speaking English with them to convince them that I really am not Sandra, but an American.
It's all just part of this Dominican life.
Right now the blackouts in this area are usually coming twice a day, and total about 12 hours out of each 24 hour period. That is more than usual. I think the norm is more like 8 hours a day. There is probably some major problem like several plants are shut down. That happens from time to time.
A note on phone service. It's bad. Customer service in both of the phone companies I've used has been dismal. Apart from that, there are other problems. When my phone was installed, a couple of weeks ago, it rang almost right away. It was a bill collector. It seems the person who previously had my number owes money to a number of banks, mainly with visa cards. Daily I receive recorded reminders from the banks that Sandra X's account is overdue and would she please pay it. I asked the phone company if there is any delay time between reassigning a number. Their response was that it could be a day, a month, or a year, before the number is reassigned. There isn't any requirement. I have two choices: get a new number, for which they will charge me about $15--and it will have no guarantee not to have the same problem--or call the banks and ask them to stop calling. They have no way to block the numbers, according to their rep.
I had already called the banks. They both assured me they would take care of it, but I could tell that they were suspicious that maybe I really was Sandra, and was lying to them. I received a call from a person asking for the Sandra soon after reporting to the bank. I suspect the bank was trying to catch her (or me) in a lie! At any rate, I just began speaking English with them to convince them that I really am not Sandra, but an American.
It's all just part of this Dominican life.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Pizza, other foods, and water
Dominican pizza...notice anything different from its US counterpart? It is sprinkled with corn. And it's quite good that way. Try it sometime!
Grocery stores
If you are in the capital, or another large city, you will find grocery stores pretty similar to the ones in the US.
There is less convenience food, which is probably not a bad thing. There is one thing you have to do when shopping that you cannot do in the US. You must open some of the containers. For example, if you don't open the mayo jar to be sure it still has its contents well sealed within, you may find out at home, that you have just bought a jar of mayo that is spoiled. This has happened to me more than once, but still, it's easy for me to forget. I did it again just last week. And I also bought some of the potato chips which come in the long tube-can, and found they had been opened and sampled. Sometimes you can get your money back, but sometimes they won't give it to you, because maybe you spoiled it yourself through lack of refrigeration--how can they know for sure? You will not be reprimanded for this checking under the lid, even if you do it in front of store personnel, because they know it is necessary.
Eating healthy is the best buy, as it is all over the world. There are lots of fresh fruits and veggies. Supermarkets have them, but if you go to a local outside stand, you will probably get them fresher and for less money. I can go to the guy on the corner and ask for 30¢(usd) of cabbage. He'll even slice it thin enough for cole slaw in the bargain. Or I can ask for 60¢ of "salad." He'll point to different things, tomatoes, lettuce, etc., asking what should be included in the salad, and he'll make it up right there.
When I get home, I will soak any lettuce or cabbage in a mild solution of bleach and water, to avoid any problems with parasites. I generally don't eat salads out, because I have no way of knowing if they've been adequately cleaned. Some people are less fussy than I am, and just rinse them with clean water.
By the way, being served impure water is no longer an issue, as far as I can see. Twenty years ago a lot of people drank tap water, which is not suitable for drinking here. But these days, virtually everyone buys their water, and use that water for ice as well.
There are two main ways to get your drinking water. You can buy it at a corner store, usually within a block or two of your house. If you call the store, they will send out a motorcycle with your purchase of water, and/or anything else. You swap them your empty container for a full one. Since these are water cooler size--5 gallons, it's better to have them bring it over. They will put it right in your kitchen.
The second way is to buy it from little tanker trucks that go around the neighborhood honking their horns. You take your container out, and they fill it for you. That's the method I use. Everyone has an opinion on water, which brand is clean, which isn't, but I've never had a problem. Oh, and on the street, at traffic lights, you can buy a 30¢ bottle of water, or a 6-8¢ plastic envelope of water. Just tear off the corner and suck out all the water.
I do prefer to buy my meat at the grocery, since at the outdoor butcher shops, the meats are often subject to swarms of flies. Mind you, I don't see what happens indoors at the supermarket, so I take it on faith they have less of that! I've noticed one brand of chicken that consistently gives you less than you pay for. The company puts a sponge like paper under the chicken and makes sure it is full of water. Then they package it, and weigh it in the package. So you are paying for the packaging, the extra water weight, and less chicken than you had hoped. A Dominican friend of mine who moved to the states complained about our chicken. She said the pieces were too big and the flavor different. Dominican chickens are usually a lot bonier than ours, that's for sure. Seems it is a matter of what you are used to as to which you prefer.
Some stores, including my favorite grocery store, have "scribblers." That is what I call the guy that scribbles on your receipt as you go out the door. Another thing you won't find in the US, is that you may hear worship music being played over the store's sound system as you shop. That's a nice touch.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Cold water
This Dominican life includes cold water. Deliciously cold showers after a hot day, or in the event there is not water left in the rooftop tank, deliciously cold bucket baths.
The tank on the roof is black, so you would think it would warm up the water. It probably does take a bit of the edge off, but only the very hottest days, and when the tank is nearly empty, do you get warm water. And if it's that hot, you actually look forward to the cold water.
I have my own solar water heater for when I want warm-hot water, usually in the morning. It consists of a small black tub. I fill it about half full, cover it with clear plastic, and set in the sun for a few hours. The water will get so hot that I must dilute it with cold water so as not to burn myself!
At other times, I have been known to heat a small pot of water on the gas stove, just to take the edge off for morning bath.
Here it is common to take many showers a day. You of course take one before you sleep and when you wake up. You also take one before you go anywhere and when you get home from anywhere. And it is a good idea to take a shower just after the sun goes down, so that the whole evening you feel cooler.
The tank on the roof is black, so you would think it would warm up the water. It probably does take a bit of the edge off, but only the very hottest days, and when the tank is nearly empty, do you get warm water. And if it's that hot, you actually look forward to the cold water.
I have my own solar water heater for when I want warm-hot water, usually in the morning. It consists of a small black tub. I fill it about half full, cover it with clear plastic, and set in the sun for a few hours. The water will get so hot that I must dilute it with cold water so as not to burn myself!
At other times, I have been known to heat a small pot of water on the gas stove, just to take the edge off for morning bath.
Here it is common to take many showers a day. You of course take one before you sleep and when you wake up. You also take one before you go anywhere and when you get home from anywhere. And it is a good idea to take a shower just after the sun goes down, so that the whole evening you feel cooler.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Lights please! Ramblings on electricity or lack thereof
Living without electricity for an hour's blackout can be fun, especially if you are a child. You get to use candles and flashlights, and it is almost like a camping trip. But when it is every day, for hours and hours, it isn't so fun.
Today the electricity went off around 7AM. It came on again almost 8 hours later, stayed a couple of hours, and went off again. And so it goes.
How do we function? Well, years ago, it was just candles and hurricane lamps. The church would sometimes use a small propane tank attached to a long pole that had a lantern like thingie on the end. Those gave more light. I remember for our Wednesday night prayer meetings, that the deaf group would buy a candle, and when the candle burned down, the meeting ended. Deaf people cannot communicate so well in the dark.
You can still buy treadle sewing machines here, although these days you can run them by electricity OR treadle. Most people that have a home phone, have the wired kind, since those don't go off with the electricity.
These days more and more people have inverters. This is a little box that you hook up to batteries (car batteries or similar). The batteries charge when there is electricity, and when the lights go off, your lights stay on, and draw power from the batteries. The box is wired up through your breaker box, to where you want the electricity.
In my case, as with many middle and lower class homes, everything except the kitchen is hooked up. I have a kitchen light, but the refrigerator and microwave don't work on batteries. I have four batteries. A friend of mine who has twelve, and two inverters, runs even her refrigerator, which is large, and never runs out of electricity.
Yesterday and today, my batteries ran out before the electricity came back on. Maybe this was because they really didn't have much time to recharge between blackouts, and maybe because the blackouts were just so long that even fully charged batteries wouldn't last long enough.
But when I do have battery power, I can do most anything. I cannot blow dry my hair or use the toaster, but I can run my tiny washing machine and of course my computer. I cannot use the school's laser printer, but I could run the tv, if I ever took it out of the closet.
Electricity is not distributed on an equal basis all over the city. Certain areas have no blackouts. Like say, where the president lives. I used to live a block from a hospital, and blackouts were extremely rare. Then there are the areas where neighborhood associations have made a deal with the electric company that they would all pay their electric bills. And of course the rich tend to have more than the poor, but then, they do usually pay for it.
One interesting thing is that lately more and more people are buying AC. This is really new. And I'm not sure that it is good. Because we don't have enough electricity to run lights, and now we will have to run AC? A friend of mine lives above a river community. Now the river communities don't usually pay electricity. Most all of theirs is stolen. And he says he is hearing the hum of AC coming from those houses! Those are usually the poorest people in the land, yet some of them have AC that I, living on a middle class level cannot afford!
About fifty percent of the electricity in the country is stolen. It is stolen by rich, by poor, by large companies and by small, by nonchristians, and sadly, by Christians.
I still remember the day, many years ago, when I lived in an apt. building and they turned our electricity off. When we complained that we had paid our bill, they told us, "but your neighbors haven't." And they weren't going to turn it on again until the rest of our building paid up. Our building had six apts. and only two of us paid regularly. If they only turned off the non-payers, they would have just tapped into the line again; they needed to turn it off at the pole to make it a bit harder. Not that that would stop them: people are always climbing the poles and tapping in, but usually you have to hire someone to do that, whereas on the ground work most people can do themselves.
Anyway, the story continues. They went all through our area shutting off all the electricity of overdue billpayers. The people in the area who stole their electricity didn't have theirs shut off, however, because they weren't overdue! The electric company is fully aware of entire sectors where no one pays. So there we were, sitting in darkness, while the electricity thieves had lights.
As for stealing, I've seen guys climb a pole with no ladder or equipment in less than three seconds! And it is common to see people hooking up electricity. In fact, the electric company doesn't actually hook up my electricity totally. They bring it to the meter on or near my house. It is my responsibility to pay someone to hook it up from the meter to the house.
What you really have to watch out for is people who tap into your electricity, so that you don't end up paying for their use.
By the way, it became illegal to steal electricity this year. I have to wonder what was it before? But now they can actually put you in jail for it. Still I haven't heard of anyone actually getting jailed so far.
One friend told me this story. She had no money to pay her bill, so they shut her electricity off. She decided to leave it off till she could afford to pay it. A month later, she went in to pay the bill and have it turned back on. There she found a double bill. One for the overdue month, and one for the month she had been using candles. The electric company assumed that she had simply tapped into someone else's electricity. They said no one would live a month without it. So she was unable to get hers back until she paid both months, despite the fact that a simple check of her meter would have verified she hadn't used the electricity.
I often joke that we in the DR get a lot more joy out of our electricity than people in the developed world do. Two or three times a day, a shout of joy is heard all through the neighborhood, as the lights come on!
Today the electricity went off around 7AM. It came on again almost 8 hours later, stayed a couple of hours, and went off again. And so it goes.
How do we function? Well, years ago, it was just candles and hurricane lamps. The church would sometimes use a small propane tank attached to a long pole that had a lantern like thingie on the end. Those gave more light. I remember for our Wednesday night prayer meetings, that the deaf group would buy a candle, and when the candle burned down, the meeting ended. Deaf people cannot communicate so well in the dark.
You can still buy treadle sewing machines here, although these days you can run them by electricity OR treadle. Most people that have a home phone, have the wired kind, since those don't go off with the electricity.
These days more and more people have inverters. This is a little box that you hook up to batteries (car batteries or similar). The batteries charge when there is electricity, and when the lights go off, your lights stay on, and draw power from the batteries. The box is wired up through your breaker box, to where you want the electricity.
In my case, as with many middle and lower class homes, everything except the kitchen is hooked up. I have a kitchen light, but the refrigerator and microwave don't work on batteries. I have four batteries. A friend of mine who has twelve, and two inverters, runs even her refrigerator, which is large, and never runs out of electricity.
Yesterday and today, my batteries ran out before the electricity came back on. Maybe this was because they really didn't have much time to recharge between blackouts, and maybe because the blackouts were just so long that even fully charged batteries wouldn't last long enough.
But when I do have battery power, I can do most anything. I cannot blow dry my hair or use the toaster, but I can run my tiny washing machine and of course my computer. I cannot use the school's laser printer, but I could run the tv, if I ever took it out of the closet.
Electricity is not distributed on an equal basis all over the city. Certain areas have no blackouts. Like say, where the president lives. I used to live a block from a hospital, and blackouts were extremely rare. Then there are the areas where neighborhood associations have made a deal with the electric company that they would all pay their electric bills. And of course the rich tend to have more than the poor, but then, they do usually pay for it.
One interesting thing is that lately more and more people are buying AC. This is really new. And I'm not sure that it is good. Because we don't have enough electricity to run lights, and now we will have to run AC? A friend of mine lives above a river community. Now the river communities don't usually pay electricity. Most all of theirs is stolen. And he says he is hearing the hum of AC coming from those houses! Those are usually the poorest people in the land, yet some of them have AC that I, living on a middle class level cannot afford!
About fifty percent of the electricity in the country is stolen. It is stolen by rich, by poor, by large companies and by small, by nonchristians, and sadly, by Christians.
I still remember the day, many years ago, when I lived in an apt. building and they turned our electricity off. When we complained that we had paid our bill, they told us, "but your neighbors haven't." And they weren't going to turn it on again until the rest of our building paid up. Our building had six apts. and only two of us paid regularly. If they only turned off the non-payers, they would have just tapped into the line again; they needed to turn it off at the pole to make it a bit harder. Not that that would stop them: people are always climbing the poles and tapping in, but usually you have to hire someone to do that, whereas on the ground work most people can do themselves.
Anyway, the story continues. They went all through our area shutting off all the electricity of overdue billpayers. The people in the area who stole their electricity didn't have theirs shut off, however, because they weren't overdue! The electric company is fully aware of entire sectors where no one pays. So there we were, sitting in darkness, while the electricity thieves had lights.
As for stealing, I've seen guys climb a pole with no ladder or equipment in less than three seconds! And it is common to see people hooking up electricity. In fact, the electric company doesn't actually hook up my electricity totally. They bring it to the meter on or near my house. It is my responsibility to pay someone to hook it up from the meter to the house.
What you really have to watch out for is people who tap into your electricity, so that you don't end up paying for their use.
By the way, it became illegal to steal electricity this year. I have to wonder what was it before? But now they can actually put you in jail for it. Still I haven't heard of anyone actually getting jailed so far.
One friend told me this story. She had no money to pay her bill, so they shut her electricity off. She decided to leave it off till she could afford to pay it. A month later, she went in to pay the bill and have it turned back on. There she found a double bill. One for the overdue month, and one for the month she had been using candles. The electric company assumed that she had simply tapped into someone else's electricity. They said no one would live a month without it. So she was unable to get hers back until she paid both months, despite the fact that a simple check of her meter would have verified she hadn't used the electricity.
I often joke that we in the DR get a lot more joy out of our electricity than people in the developed world do. Two or three times a day, a shout of joy is heard all through the neighborhood, as the lights come on!
Monday, June 29, 2009
Flies, rats, mosquitos, oh my!
Well, I have a blog for the school, but sometimes I want to talk about other things, so this will be more of that. I want to talk about what life--and specifically my life--is like, here in the Dominican Republic. You should know that I'm an American ("norteamericana"), a Christian missionary to the deaf, and I live at about a middle-class level. Make that lower middle-class. So that is the viewpoint I'm coming from. I don't have a car; I use public transportation. I eat like an American at home, and like a Dominican when I go out or visit friends.
[Note: here I had to stop and put on mosquito repellent. My new house is in an area that is just swarming with mosquitoes. Before the move, I hadn't had a mosquito bite in four months. After...well, bunches of them.]
I want to talk about things that are on my mind. Like moving. I don't want to whine, just inform. This is a tell it as I see it blog, and is not written with the intention of offending anyone. I don't claim that what happens to me happens to everyone. It is just what happens to me, OK? It is my experience here. Disclaimer done.
Having said that, I'll tell you about my recent move. First of all, I had only been in my other place for about six months, when I was informed I'd have to either sign a contract or move. I chose to move. That apt. was rented from a friend, whose father-in-law decided that the house belonged to him. She and her husband had built on top of the mother-in-law's house with the parents' permission. Unfortunately they had no legal rights when the father-in-law decided he would require a contract which included a raise in rent. Doubtless the extra money was for his pocket not theirs. And they had no say in anything.
Nevertheless, I began to see this as from the hand of God. For one thing, my old apt. was missing a sliding glass door, the front door, and two windows. It had bars, so no one would break in, but I covered the openings with canvas to keep out the rain. With another hurricane season upon us, I wasn't looking forward to what I went through last year.
A friend helped me find this place, just three doors down from her own apt. It's just a two minute walk to the church I attend, as well as to get to public transportation routes. It's on a paved road that turns to dirt, just a couple of houses before mine. So it is muddy when it rains, and dusty when it doesn't. I'm in walking distance of a deaf couple who are friends of mine, although the neighborhood takes a turn for the worse over there; it's a drug infested area and robbers on motorcycles are known to sometimes cruise around mugging people. Usually if you give them what they want (your money, cell phone, camera etc.) they will leave without harming you.
Big cities are often like that. But I digress.
Suffice it to say, that I'm mostly pleased with the location.
The house itself, has lots of problems. When I first agreed to rent, the landlord--well, he really is the guy who works for the landlord, but he does the work, so I'll just call him that--agreed to repaint, which was badly needed, and to put all the plumbing and electrical stuff in good working shape.
Here, you maintain your own place, at least the inside. So if you have a plumbing problem, it is your problem not your landlord's. For this reason, it is important to get the apt./house in good shape.
I had to buy a $100US pump to pump the water up to the water tank, so as to have running water all the time. Nevertheless, for the first two weeks I had serious plumbing problems. It seems that the house had previously had a serious leaky pipe, and instead of tearing up the whole second floor to find the problem, they had diverted the water through a system of other pipes outside. So the bathrooms had pvc pipes coming in from outside, as did the kitchen. The landlord evidently didn't realize the extent of the previous problem and reconnected the built in pipes. This caused a major water leak that filtered down every cement wall in the house for the first week I was there. The new paint job was ruined in every room; it is now peeling off all over the place. Mold started to grow on the doors, but thankfully not on the walls. (Could be that bleach spray helped.) The landlord finally heard me when I showed him that it was raining in my bathroom, and that a bucket had caught about an inch and a half of water from the roof overnight. I reminded him that our agreement was that he hand it over in good condition.
He called in a handyman who is not a plumber, because he was much cheaper than a plumber. This guy could only work after his regular job and on weekends, so for the first two weeks, I was using buckets for my water supply. Every time he fixed something, it would need refixing, because, nice as he is, he isn't a plumber.
In another two weeks, the walls had pretty much dried out. I put out damp rid to try to save all my paper and cloth supplies from mold, and that worked pretty well.
So for now, there is only one leak. Daily a puddle appears, seemingly out of nowhere, in the bathroom.
After the water, came the rats. I had done major sorting of everything into its room, and now was settling down to the more detailed unpacking. The closet close to the kitchen I was using for sort of a pantry/garage, to hold some foodstuffs and tools. As I took everything out to resettle it more nicely, I noticed that there was linguini all over the place, and that a package of crackers and another of pretzels had been opened.
The neighbors recommended "Tres pasos"--literally "three steps." Supposedly when the rat eats the poison, it takes no more than three steps before falling over dead. There is rat poison outside and inside (no pets around) and one rat outside took the bait. The "plumber" told me there is a rat's nest on the roof.
Mosquitos don't usually like me. But here there are so many starving mosquitos, they'll take anyone. Usually after a small taste of my blood, they go elsewhere. So I found myself with literally hundreds of tiny mosquito bites on my feet the first week. Since then, I wear repellent as if it were the finest lotion. They still manage to get me from time to time, but not like before. Now mosquitos here are dangerous. They carry dengue, and dengue can be deadly. Usually the first time you get it, it's like the flu. The second time it is more dangerous. Maleria is a lesser concern here in the capital, but out near the border that is an additional danger.
I sprayed for roaches when I moved in, and have been finding dead roaches almost daily. Most homes here, including mine, don't have screens, and roaches like to fly in the windows when the humidity is up. [I remember a missionary was asked why don't we have screens here, and he replied, "How would the flies get out?]
Oh yes, flies. The neighbor likes to put her garbage near my kitchen door, and anytime I put food out the flies come over for their share. In general, there is a lot of garbage thrown on the streets, so flies are a perpetual problem.
Noise. I visited this place at least three times before moving in, and ask two of the neighbors about noise. Both assured me it was very calm around here, just as it was when I visited. They lied. No, I shouldn't say that. They told the truth from a Dominican viewpoint. They are so used to the noise that they no longer consider it noisy here.
This house has three floors. The first floor is mine and I share it with a hair salon. The hair salon is normally pretty peaceful. We have daily blackouts. When the lights are out and someone wants their hair dried, it means turning on the gasoline run generator, which is very noisy. That will be on for at least a half an hour.
The gay couple upstairs likes to play music very loud. One of them is a cop, so I guess I can't call the cops on them, LOL. Fortunately, they only do this ten or fifteen hours a week, and not usually after midnight.
The small corner store on a street behind me also likes loud music, mostly on the weekends.
The people to the right and in front also like loud music.
Sometimes, generally on the weekend, I can hear three or four different clashing styles of music all at once. There is a conglomeration of popular merengue, american music, rap rock in Spanish and English, sometimes with very vulgar words, and yeah, it gets annoying. So I put on my earmuffs, the noise-reducing kind, and seek refuge in whatever room seems to be the quietest for the moment. I've lived in both less noisy and more noisy environments. A lot of the music goes off when there is a blackout; it's pretty bad when you are praying for the electricity to go off!
Internet and phone. Here, you usually have to have a contract with your internet company. In my case, I had an 18 month contract with Codetel. The deal is, that if you move out of their service area, there is no penalty; otherwise you have to finish up the contract. In my case, when I moved, I called them up and ordered my service moved. After three or four calls, and eight visits with corresponding waits in line, just a month later, I was informed that there was no service in my area and that I would be released from the contract. Before that, I was told at each visit, that they would be out to install my internet in 3-5 days.
Now I have another internet service, tricom. Well, sort of. It works at a snail's pace and cuts off and on at any time, necesitating a reset of the equipment. Speed tests show it to be faster than 25% of the country--translation: slower than 75%. After a single day of this, I called to ask them to up the speed. They said I couldn't do that for three months! It turns out it was a special price. Well the guy had told me a month. But I told them I don't care about the sale price, charge me the regular price now. They said they would do that. That was last week, and it was supposed to happen very quickly. They still haven't done it. I called again. "It will be done within 24 hours." I'm not holding my breath.
When the phone service was turned on, I was supposed to get a phone. I've been calling the man each day, asking for my phone. He's always going to bring it today. But somehow, today never comes. I have an older phone that I can use, as long as I hold the wire in while I'm talking. :P
There is nothing particularly unusual in any of this. This is just my normal Dominican Life.
[Note: here I had to stop and put on mosquito repellent. My new house is in an area that is just swarming with mosquitoes. Before the move, I hadn't had a mosquito bite in four months. After...well, bunches of them.]
I want to talk about things that are on my mind. Like moving. I don't want to whine, just inform. This is a tell it as I see it blog, and is not written with the intention of offending anyone. I don't claim that what happens to me happens to everyone. It is just what happens to me, OK? It is my experience here. Disclaimer done.
Having said that, I'll tell you about my recent move. First of all, I had only been in my other place for about six months, when I was informed I'd have to either sign a contract or move. I chose to move. That apt. was rented from a friend, whose father-in-law decided that the house belonged to him. She and her husband had built on top of the mother-in-law's house with the parents' permission. Unfortunately they had no legal rights when the father-in-law decided he would require a contract which included a raise in rent. Doubtless the extra money was for his pocket not theirs. And they had no say in anything.
Nevertheless, I began to see this as from the hand of God. For one thing, my old apt. was missing a sliding glass door, the front door, and two windows. It had bars, so no one would break in, but I covered the openings with canvas to keep out the rain. With another hurricane season upon us, I wasn't looking forward to what I went through last year.
A friend helped me find this place, just three doors down from her own apt. It's just a two minute walk to the church I attend, as well as to get to public transportation routes. It's on a paved road that turns to dirt, just a couple of houses before mine. So it is muddy when it rains, and dusty when it doesn't. I'm in walking distance of a deaf couple who are friends of mine, although the neighborhood takes a turn for the worse over there; it's a drug infested area and robbers on motorcycles are known to sometimes cruise around mugging people. Usually if you give them what they want (your money, cell phone, camera etc.) they will leave without harming you.
Big cities are often like that. But I digress.
Suffice it to say, that I'm mostly pleased with the location.
The house itself, has lots of problems. When I first agreed to rent, the landlord--well, he really is the guy who works for the landlord, but he does the work, so I'll just call him that--agreed to repaint, which was badly needed, and to put all the plumbing and electrical stuff in good working shape.
Here, you maintain your own place, at least the inside. So if you have a plumbing problem, it is your problem not your landlord's. For this reason, it is important to get the apt./house in good shape.
I had to buy a $100US pump to pump the water up to the water tank, so as to have running water all the time. Nevertheless, for the first two weeks I had serious plumbing problems. It seems that the house had previously had a serious leaky pipe, and instead of tearing up the whole second floor to find the problem, they had diverted the water through a system of other pipes outside. So the bathrooms had pvc pipes coming in from outside, as did the kitchen. The landlord evidently didn't realize the extent of the previous problem and reconnected the built in pipes. This caused a major water leak that filtered down every cement wall in the house for the first week I was there. The new paint job was ruined in every room; it is now peeling off all over the place. Mold started to grow on the doors, but thankfully not on the walls. (Could be that bleach spray helped.) The landlord finally heard me when I showed him that it was raining in my bathroom, and that a bucket had caught about an inch and a half of water from the roof overnight. I reminded him that our agreement was that he hand it over in good condition.
He called in a handyman who is not a plumber, because he was much cheaper than a plumber. This guy could only work after his regular job and on weekends, so for the first two weeks, I was using buckets for my water supply. Every time he fixed something, it would need refixing, because, nice as he is, he isn't a plumber.
In another two weeks, the walls had pretty much dried out. I put out damp rid to try to save all my paper and cloth supplies from mold, and that worked pretty well.
So for now, there is only one leak. Daily a puddle appears, seemingly out of nowhere, in the bathroom.
After the water, came the rats. I had done major sorting of everything into its room, and now was settling down to the more detailed unpacking. The closet close to the kitchen I was using for sort of a pantry/garage, to hold some foodstuffs and tools. As I took everything out to resettle it more nicely, I noticed that there was linguini all over the place, and that a package of crackers and another of pretzels had been opened.
The neighbors recommended "Tres pasos"--literally "three steps." Supposedly when the rat eats the poison, it takes no more than three steps before falling over dead. There is rat poison outside and inside (no pets around) and one rat outside took the bait. The "plumber" told me there is a rat's nest on the roof.
Mosquitos don't usually like me. But here there are so many starving mosquitos, they'll take anyone. Usually after a small taste of my blood, they go elsewhere. So I found myself with literally hundreds of tiny mosquito bites on my feet the first week. Since then, I wear repellent as if it were the finest lotion. They still manage to get me from time to time, but not like before. Now mosquitos here are dangerous. They carry dengue, and dengue can be deadly. Usually the first time you get it, it's like the flu. The second time it is more dangerous. Maleria is a lesser concern here in the capital, but out near the border that is an additional danger.
I sprayed for roaches when I moved in, and have been finding dead roaches almost daily. Most homes here, including mine, don't have screens, and roaches like to fly in the windows when the humidity is up. [I remember a missionary was asked why don't we have screens here, and he replied, "How would the flies get out?]
Oh yes, flies. The neighbor likes to put her garbage near my kitchen door, and anytime I put food out the flies come over for their share. In general, there is a lot of garbage thrown on the streets, so flies are a perpetual problem.
Noise. I visited this place at least three times before moving in, and ask two of the neighbors about noise. Both assured me it was very calm around here, just as it was when I visited. They lied. No, I shouldn't say that. They told the truth from a Dominican viewpoint. They are so used to the noise that they no longer consider it noisy here.
This house has three floors. The first floor is mine and I share it with a hair salon. The hair salon is normally pretty peaceful. We have daily blackouts. When the lights are out and someone wants their hair dried, it means turning on the gasoline run generator, which is very noisy. That will be on for at least a half an hour.
The gay couple upstairs likes to play music very loud. One of them is a cop, so I guess I can't call the cops on them, LOL. Fortunately, they only do this ten or fifteen hours a week, and not usually after midnight.
The small corner store on a street behind me also likes loud music, mostly on the weekends.
The people to the right and in front also like loud music.
Sometimes, generally on the weekend, I can hear three or four different clashing styles of music all at once. There is a conglomeration of popular merengue, american music, rap rock in Spanish and English, sometimes with very vulgar words, and yeah, it gets annoying. So I put on my earmuffs, the noise-reducing kind, and seek refuge in whatever room seems to be the quietest for the moment. I've lived in both less noisy and more noisy environments. A lot of the music goes off when there is a blackout; it's pretty bad when you are praying for the electricity to go off!
Internet and phone. Here, you usually have to have a contract with your internet company. In my case, I had an 18 month contract with Codetel. The deal is, that if you move out of their service area, there is no penalty; otherwise you have to finish up the contract. In my case, when I moved, I called them up and ordered my service moved. After three or four calls, and eight visits with corresponding waits in line, just a month later, I was informed that there was no service in my area and that I would be released from the contract. Before that, I was told at each visit, that they would be out to install my internet in 3-5 days.
Now I have another internet service, tricom. Well, sort of. It works at a snail's pace and cuts off and on at any time, necesitating a reset of the equipment. Speed tests show it to be faster than 25% of the country--translation: slower than 75%. After a single day of this, I called to ask them to up the speed. They said I couldn't do that for three months! It turns out it was a special price. Well the guy had told me a month. But I told them I don't care about the sale price, charge me the regular price now. They said they would do that. That was last week, and it was supposed to happen very quickly. They still haven't done it. I called again. "It will be done within 24 hours." I'm not holding my breath.
When the phone service was turned on, I was supposed to get a phone. I've been calling the man each day, asking for my phone. He's always going to bring it today. But somehow, today never comes. I have an older phone that I can use, as long as I hold the wire in while I'm talking. :P
There is nothing particularly unusual in any of this. This is just my normal Dominican Life.
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